10673204300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

!st removed the doors from the unit, then laid them on the floor. Next, on a long side of the door, cut through the gasket so I could pull it off the door in one piece without separating the door liner from the outer door. Then, starting at a corner, started pushing the stiff black part of the replacement gasket between the liner and outer door, making sure to push it completely under as I went. Used a thick flat bladed screwdriver to carefully help push the final corner section in. Repeated on both doors, rehung, plugged in and done!

I bought a new Whirlpool Refrigerator that didn't have an ice maker.
I wanted to install an ice maker. I searched your web site and found the model ice maker model it said I needed. WPW10715709. This one was a 4 wire 8 terminal. I needed a 4 wire flat connector. WPW10715708. You approved the return. It cost me $50 to return it. I believe you should refund me the cost of this postage. Your web site gave me the wrong model number.

Thank you

The item is listed as R, meaning right hand side. If you need it for the left hand side, simple turn it over. It is designed to work on both sides of the door.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Replaced with new parts

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Slid right in...exceptionally easy :)

Top freezer, remove fan cover on back panel in side top freezer, remove back panel inside top freezer, remove fan and fan motor, unplug electric from fan (PS unplug fridge first). Install new motor, replace ever thing in reverse. works great.

Removed back panel inside freezer replaced fan motor reinstalled panel and was done in about 40 minutes the video on part select explains the repair very accurately

Most important, remove bracket attached to freezer rear wall and put entire fan motor assembly together, including attaching power supply, ground wire, front bracket and fan blade (be sure rubber vibration dampeners are in place on both brackets) THEN attach the whole assembly to the rear freezer wall! Doing it this way is so much easier, and you won't run the risk of losing a screw behind the condenser, as I did!

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.