10673906300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

The majority of the repair time was spent moving the items in the refrigerator off the glass top under which the track was to be placed. After that, the track was a cinch to put in its place (it's pretty idiot-proof). Perhaps the track wouldn't need replacement if it were made of something stronger than plastic, but I felt pretty handy doing this for my wife, and she's glad to have the hydrator drawers back in proper operation.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

My water line to refrigerator sprung very small leak due to years of rubbing on its own bracket holding it to back of refrigerator. The removal and installation are exactly like shown in the video on PartSelect website. A possible problem can arise when removing and re-inserting the water line into "colletts" on the refrigerator filter housing. The grey circular colletts push in and out, not far, but after years of use can be brittle. If you move the colletts too much, a small part of plastic can snap, and you will then need an entire new filter housing. Be gentle when depressing the collett to pull out and push in the water line.

The rail just snapped into place with a light pressure. I worried it would require manipulation or heavy pressure and I would break the end while installing it.

Replaced the control of the ice maker assembly.

In my case the defrost thermostat was not the problem. Not worth going through the hassle of checking the thermostat as I would have had to cut it out and test it in another freezer (while the food that was in the freezer was being stored elsewhere). I just ended up buying it and replacing it. So, like I said the defrost thermostat was NOT the issue. I ended up getting a drain tube heater strap, and have been keeping my eye on the fridge. It hasn't been long enough to say the strap fixed the problem, but all indications are pointing to that being the case.

I replaced the filter inlet tube with this filter inlet tube because the refrigerator looked the same and I thought it would therefore be approximately correct. It was except for the connection to the copper tube feeding into the plastic tube. The fitting was not compatible and needed to be cut off and replaced with a new ferule and fitting purchased from a local hardware store for about two or three dollars.

It was simply placing the clear $60.00 door in place. It was a very simple fix, but expensive!

Purchased a new line, watched the video. The video was a bit misleading the filter housing does not slide out the front to access the removal of the line. I doing so I broke the clip holding the smaller line had to order the complete housing. 90 dollars it's repaired now so all is well .

The repair was simple.

I first did a diagnosis of the optical cuircuits and found them good. The tray heated up and when resetting the moor controller, the water cyccled to fill the tray so the only other thing it could be was the motor controller.

removed the service door for the ice maker
I removed the wire protectore screw and shroud
pulled the icemaker unit out and unplugged the unit
removed the motor controller end cap
unscrewed 3 screws holding the motor controller
removed and replaced the motor controller. ensured that all wire harness connector poiints were solid
reverse the above instructions and in 5 hours I was getting ice again!

$90 turned out to be a savings from the $250 it would have cost to have someone come out and look at the fridge.

I highly recommend to anyone who can read and use a screwdriver to perform this repair if you have diagnosed this as the root of your problem!

Repair was real easy, I had to remove several screws in the bottom of the icemaker module housing. The unit slide out with no problem there was a wire assembly that hat to be disconnected but this did not present a problem. The old module came out real easy after removing 4 screws and the replacement was not a problem to but in.

Noticed the evaporator fan not spinning but would spin with a finger jump start. After looking up the part on the PartSelect liner parts diagram I found the installation video that really helped. After installing the fan it tested out fantastic. The fan was blowing air 10 times more than the old one. Refrigerator works great on the original econo setting.

Removed the one screw holding the unit in place in the freezer and pulled it out. Removed the 3 screws that hold the motor in place on the ice maker. Replaced the motor unit, replaced the 3 screws, and re-installed the ice maker.
Sears wanted $170 for labor for the 10 minute job, plus $130 for the part, which I got here for $65.

i followed the online instructions on how to take the icemaker apart, which were very easy to follow. Once the new part arrived it plugged right in and a few steps later it was back together. within the hour we were hearing the sound of ice dropping into the tray. thanks for all the help this definitely saved us money and hopefully we get many more years out of this icemaker.