36348047893 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First I placed a 2x4 under the frig door to keep it in place while I removed the hinge on the bottom of the door. I removed two screws holding the hinge and one screw holding the washer in place. I also loosened a screw adjacent to the washer so that I could more easily remove and replace the washer. The parts went in easily. The repair took much less time than I anticipated.

I removed the drawer and glass shelf, removed 2 screws and replaced with new drawer slide in reverse order. I removed the contents of the door, the top hinge, and then laid the door down. On the bottom of the door, I replaced the pivot piece (provided) and then I replaced the hinge on the lower right side of the refrigerator box (2 screws with a nut driver bit). I now reversed the order to re-assemble the door and finally re-aligned the top hinge to adjust the door fit. Less than 30 minutes total. EASY!

After easily finding the lower hinge here through Google, I paid about $30 w/shipping and had the part in 2 days. My Hotpoint fridge was made in 1987, but it still runs well...why not fix the door?

Part repair couldn't be easier. No instructions needed...just empty the fridge door of food, remove top hinge, replace bottom hinge and plastic bushing, and reverse order to button everything up.

PartSelect.com did a great job supplying a high-quality replacement hinge for my old fridge, and it's got a new lease on life now!

I had this problem before and called a repair guy. He told me about the little freezer heater (WTF?) and showed me that it's basically a light bulb that wears out. He took off the back panel and showed me the metal plates with the tubes under neath. But he only had one bulb to replace with, so he only fixed one of the two. Total cost to "change a light bulb": $229
This time I ordered the part and did the work myself. It was totally easy, but that is because I knew what I was doing. The hardest part is squishing into the freezer to unscrew things. Before I took it all apart, I used my cellphone camera to take a picture of how it was (which wires went where), just in case after taking the old one off, I couldn't remember how to put the new one on. No problem. The actual part swap took ~5 min (unhooking and rehooking the temp gauge and the power connector). Most of the time was just unscrewing and screwing in the screws.

First I removed the drawers. Then I removed the 2 screws from each side. Then replaced the 2 pieces in the same manner using the same screws. It took about 15-20 min. Very easy. Drawers work perfectly now. Glad I found this site.

I unloaded the door and took the cover off at the top of the upper hinge (1 phillips screw) I then unbolted the upper hinge (2-28mm bolts) and lifted the door off. I was surprised how light it was. I laid the door down and installed the new cam riser on the door. I then unbolted the lower hinge (2-28mm bolts)and installed the new hinge.
I lubed the 2 hinges with vaseline and put the door back on the lower hinge. I then reinstalled the upper hinge and cover. It took about 15 minutes, and a lot of that was cleaning up. Oh yes, to get at the lower hinge you have to pull off the lower grate that covers the coils. It just snaps off and on. It was a very easy job.

I had to remove the 4 screws that holds the coil cover to the freezer then I had to thaw the coils with a hair dryer then removed the thermostat,unplugged the heater assembly,unscrewed the 4 screws that holds the heaters in, then reversed the process to put the new heater assembly in. It was simple!!

I removed the top hinge by removing three screws, I then lifted the door off the bottem hinge and set it aside. I then removed the two screws holding the bottom hinge,removed it and installed the new part. I removed the broken part from the door by removing one screw-installed the new part and set the door in place and reinstalled the top hinge. The door is now properly aligned and working like new. I spent as much time writing this as I did on the repair

I cleaned out the door and removed the top hinge. Lifted the door and layed it on the floor. Removed bottom hinge from refridgerator installed new hinge. Replaced plastic stop on door. Used broke hinge to align it and tighten. Lifted door onto new hinge and installed top hinge. Instead of buying $35 dollar hinge buy 2 plastic stops. You'll have to drill out a rivet on bottom hinge but it will save over $30.00.

1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!

Emptied refrigerator door shelves. Supported door with 4x4 blocks. Removed old door hinge and replaced with new door hinge and cams. Pleased with end result and dealing with PartSelect.

My right door (food door on side-by-side) stopped closing - I found pieces of the plastic washer (cam riser) on the floor. After reading the stories on the web I decided to order the new part - and YES there are many universal parts that work for Kenmore/GE. The part comes with two parts (hinge and cam riser) - you should install both to insure a good fit. I took 3 blocks of wood and a shim and supported the bottom center of the door, unscrewed the hinge off and dropped it out (3 minutes). The "only" tough part was unscrewing the cam riser from the bottom of the door - it required a very small socket and you will only have about 6-8 inches of work space. Be sure you have a socket that fits before you take the hinge off. The entire repair took less than 30 minutes and contrary to some of the posts, you DO NOT need to take the door off. Good as new again!

I removed the door from the bottom hinge assembly by removing the top hinge assembly.
1. Installed the cam to the bottom of the door.
2. Installed hinge and bottom pin & cam to the refrigerator.
3. Reinstalled door and adjusted front roller height to make door close better.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP