1069500520 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

first I turned off the water supply then I removed screw that was holding the nozzle and pulled out the tube then I pried out the face plate by prying from the bottom with a thin screw driver then I unpluged the wire harness so I could access the black tube guide that the white tube was housed in before it was cut I pushed the new white tube down threw the black tube and out the bottom hinge I replaced the nozzle screw plugged the harness back in replaced the face plate went to the bottom and connected the tube to the other half replaced the bottom molding and turned on the water

Took out the old one and put in the new one. No tolls required. It did give me the opportunity to clean the back wall of the refrigerator.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I removed the screw holding the nozzle in place, and removed the other end of the line under the refrigerator to give me some slack. Then I clipped the nozzle off of the black line and taped the new line to the end I cut off with electrical tape. Then I just snaked it down through the hole with me pulling from the bottom and my wife pushing from the top and reattached both ends. Make sure you don't use too much tape becaue it won't fit throught the hole at the bottom. I taped them together at an angle so not to make tape too thick. Also, you can snake it back from the bottom if the tape breaks and the old line comes out of the fridge.

As cookbook authors and publishers, my husband and I depend on our appliances. When our icemaker would no longer work, it was imperative that we repair it as quickly and ecomonically as possible. We had used PartSelect.com earlier to order a part to repair our Jenn-Air stove top and had great results. So, rather than paying a repairman four times or more the cost of the part, we ordered the part and my husband installed it. It took less than 30 minutes to remove the broken auger and install the new one. THANKS PartSelect.com -- we'll use you for all appliance parts needs.

Technician at ASK suggested replacing ice maker. Ordered new ice maker(prompt delevery)then noticed it came without wire arm and white platic "flag". Ordered arm and "flag", replaced all old with new and seems to be doing well. Perhaps all I needed was the plastic "flag" on the limit arm wire. Will never know. The new icemaker wiring had short wires and a connector. Old ice maker had no connector so the short wires were removed and the old wires plugged into the ice maker. Mirror was required in order to see the side wall mounting screws. Very narrow work area, tiny freezer side.

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

I removed the screws that attached the drum housing to the bin. I detached the auger & removed the broken drum assembly, turning the auger to the right, opposite what I thought it should be. I slipped the end of the auger into the new bin coupler & put it in place at the rear of the bin. Next I slipped the auger drum into place & tightened it to the left with a socket wrench. I screwed the drum housing to the bin, put the bin back into the freezer & I now have ice through the door again. Easy repair even for me, a 60+ woman.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

I pulled out the Ice maker tray. Unscrewed the front cover where the baffle had broke off. It was very easy after I found the correct part. Your site made it easy to fix my repair. Most people would have had to purchse a new refrigerator. Thanks to you I didn't have to go that way. The part came to me in about 3 days. I am very happy.

This was a very simple job. Remove the top Hinge bracket, a total of 4 screws, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, removed the bottom hinge set up, 2 screws, replaced it, and attached the new bottom black door cam, lifted the door back onto the bottom hinge and aligned the top hinge, and reinserted the screws, and Ta Da, The door works like a new refrigerator door. 15 to 30 min tops. I did not even have to take the refrigerator items out of there door holder.

Removed the top plastic hinge cover, remove (2) bolts from top hinge. Lifted door up and off of lower hinge, removed both halves of door cam, replaced cam halves and re-installed door. Super easy and effective. Door now opens and closes (stays closed) properly.