25331644104 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil.
I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil.
The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.

The switch prevented the door from closing about 5 years ago. So I just taped the switch down, and lived without a fridge light for the last 5 years. Painful! And wasteful (food spoiled because we couldn't see it.) Thought I was out of luck, assuming light switches were all the same, got fed up again, and pulled out old switch,,and searched the net for the part number, and just started calling the manufacturer. I got this website after no luck in calling, and took the step to order...and in no time, got it replaced, and we cam see now! It feels like we got a new fridge!

replaced it

I removed the door actuated light switch with my index finger and thumb on my right hand. I then removed the two wires from the switch. I noticed that the new switch had different look to it,I think Frigidaire must have had a problem with the original design of the switch. Reassembly was just replacing the two wires and putting the new switch in place, and no more door closing problem.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

When my side by side Kenmore refrigerator quit keeping the top half of my freezer and refrigerator cold I called Sears to see how much it would cost to get it checked out and fixed. Bottom line it was going to cost minimum $65 (which was just for him to come out) to $250 on up depending on what the problem was. So i decided to "do it myself"! I took it apart and within a few minutes figured out that it was my evaporator fan. So I went to sears to order the part based on the part number and with shipping and handling it was going to cost $125. While at sears I got on one of their computers and quickly looked up Kenmore parts and partselect.com came up and I quickly found the part for $62 and I chose overnight delivery and spent a total of like $83. When my part arrived I realized that the wiring/plug ins didn't quite match up. So I got online and went to their website and found a video for "do it yourself'ers" like me on how to splice the wiring to make it match. It took me about 20 min to splice the wire and put my refrigerator back together and IT WORKED! Easy easy easy and I saved moocho bucks! Ill never pay a repairman again. Oh and by the way, I am blond! :-)

Watch the video provided by PartSelect and did exactly the same percedure. Shows what screws to remove and how to remove and replace the part. The freezer compartment was iced up quite a bit so defrosted it before installing part.

jump thermostat,fan and compressor came on, ordered thermo from this excllent parts supplier, part came in 4 days later, it was exact replacement, works exactly right!

I watched the step-by-step installation video and followed the instructions therein.

I rolled the fridge away from the wall, unplugged, and looked for large amounts of dust-didn't see much beyond that which was on condenser coil. The motor was locked up so I removed the three screws and pulled the finger-like connectors. The new kit has a special bracket to mount the smaller frame motor. Getting the two screws into that is challenging w/out a long magnetic screwdriver. Then I added the foam strip & plugged in the new connector. I did not need to but I replaced the two aged capacitors (start,run) from other kits. This will help the compressor to last longer and be more efficient by giving it a boost and sustaining phase difference. Connecting the new "relay start kit" simply required some cutting and splicing with butt connectors of the red and white leads coming from the compressor and covering w/ heat shrink tube

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

The new part fit perfectly! I just snapped it on! Thanks so much Partselect! You processed my order quickly, and I had it in my hands in a few days. What a relief to have this fixed! Thanks again.

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test