59678289804 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Refrigerator was not cold.

I had this problem before and it was the control vale in the back of the refrigerator. I ordered it and change that out in 5 minutes. That wasn’t the problem. I had the repairman come over and within 5 minutes he told me what the problem was. He showed me where the control board was. He then walked me through the removal process.

First remove the light cover on the Freezer & Refrigerator in front where the light button is located. Pull down on the front of the light cover. It pops out.

Second, in the front of the freezer & refrigerator temp control panel put your fingertips in front of the panel and pull down it’s hard to get the pins to release but the front pins will release, then pull down a little to allow the back hooks to release. (You can use a small common screwdriver if you can’t get it with your fingertips).

Next, once the panel is removed then disconnect the wiring harness. Then bring the panel to the counter, this is where you remove the circuit card and replace it. There are 4 hooks that hold the circuit board in place. Use a small common screwdriver to push the hooks away from the board. The new board comes as one piece. The board is perforated to allow you to snap the board. Directions come with the board and how to snap it. You will need to pay attention on how you removed the board. You will need to put the new board in the same way it came out.

Once the board is re-installed and lock into position reverse the process and install the control panel back into position.

Next is the programing of the board. Follow the directions that come with the control board and you will be back in business

This task took about 15 minutes to remove & replace and to program.

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

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Removed 1 small 6.5mm bolt (SAVE!), slid the old part up, disconnected the wire harness, tossed it aside for the kids to apparently play swords with, then connected new wire harness, slid new part down to snap into place, secured with same little bolt and went and played pirates with my 3yr old.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

The glass shelf sits on top of the crisper housing. That was the problem since when I turned the housing over to clean, the glass fell off. I just had to set the new part on to the housing and it was fixed.
I do want to comment on how easy it was to find the part on your website, how reasonable the price and the quick delivery. Thanks!

I removed the crisper pans, installed the new rail and then installed the new bins. Very easily done--I was finished in 10 minutes

The Condenser Fan Motor was already removed due to searching for the problem. The new fan motor looked different from the original but I felt very comfortable that Part Select had sent me the new part showing original part number changing numbers over the years. Simply placed the fan blades onto the new motor lined up 2 of the holes placed screws and tightened then plugged the wire ribbon into the Condensor Fan Motor, plugged in the Refridgerator and it worked beautifully.

The instruction video on the Part Select Web Site made it so incredibly easy to install. Installation took under 3 minutes!

I watched the repair video on the website and was able to complete the repair in under 5 minutes. Super Easy!

I opened the large cardboard container the way it appeared to have been sealed. I knew i was dealing with glass. It was packed soooo great! After opening I Saw that the glass was tucked behind a separate piece of cardboard. Glad I had laid the package on the table to open. This made it easy to lift up out of the package. I went over the glass with a slightly damp cloth and dried. Peeled off the little stickers and laid it on top of the shelf supports and middle divider. It rested down right on top and eased into place. Wah-la!! All done! Thanks! Easiest repair I have ever had, and I am almost 70 with a lot of history in repairs!!

I took all items off the glass shelf. Removed the two crisper drawers. Removed the glass shelf. Installed the center rail. Replaced the two crisper drawers, the glass shelf and all items. Job done in less that 1 min. Thank you for great customer service and quick delivery.

Removed Phillips head screw on the front cover of both guides. Pull the drawer forward until it stops. Snap up the cover on each geared wheel to allow the basket to lift enough to continue removing the basket.
Swing the front of the guide rail towards the back which allows for the rear tab to come out of its hole.
Put new guide back in following reverse order.
Done!!

Lift off glass shelf and insert tabs of rail on each end , replace shelf.