59679543014 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The end cap is a very easy job to remove. Removed the three screws that hold the end cap in place using a 1/4 drive socket. Removed sliding rail which is affix to end cap to be reused with new end cap. Installed new end cap with the three screws and your done very easy. What made the job possible was the ability to identify the part from the PartsSelect.com web site which has excellent parts identification catalog.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

Lifted out the glass shelf and then removed two screws to get the right side end cap off. This side has a mechanical slide to adjust the amount of cold air into the Deli area.

You will need to carefully remove the plastic slide linkage from it's guides so that you can turn it sideways and it will then come off the end cap.

If it wasn't for that minor slowdown it would be a five minute job.

Thanks to this web site for QUICKLY getting me the part and providing info on how to do the job.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

Replaced with new gasket

Removed drawers and glass top and support bars Two screws on slid bar two screws on end cap, Make sure you take time to remove air control it has two pivot points with small taps.
Then just replace parts as you had taken off very easy.

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

I pulled the ils gasket out of track and replaced with the new one. Instructions ncluded state to be very careful with new gasket as the magnets may break. Total time 2 minutes with no tools required.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Uncurl new gaskets (set out on a table or countertop) and let them get to room temperature so they straighten out. Use hands to pull off old door gaskets. Starting at corners, use hands to push gasket into the groove on the door. Make sure gasket is properly seated all the way around the door. If some part is still wrinkled or bent, carefully use a hairdryer to heat it a bit and smooth it out.

Replaced ice bin complete with wheel. Easy fix and resonable.

Removed the old frame and removed the metal rod from the front of the old and slide it in to the new frame.
Then I took a piece from the old frame, measured the distance to the center of the two shelf brackets mounted inside in the rear of the refrigerator. Then I drilled two holes in the salvaged piece and mounted the piece as a support under the new frame using #8 sheet metal stews. This will prevent future breaks.

Just pulled out theold and squeezed in the new. I forced it and it went in.