25368979802 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

new drawer was received within 2 days and was extremely simple to install.

I purchased the door bins on partselect.com and received them in time mentioned. The reason why I had to order them will "melt" your funny bone. Yes, it says right on the bottom of the bin to hand wash them. Being a bachelor, I put them in the dishwasher on the bottom rack. When it came time to take them out, WOWOWOWOWOWOW, they were melted beyond usage. SO, I had to order new ones. Yea, Really funny, I know.

replaced it

The kickplate grille is designed to pop right on ... no tools needed.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

My husband watched the video on your website and found it very easy to do the repair. The repair company that diagnosed the problem wanted $210 to do it. The part I ordered was under $20, and after he installed it the refrigerator has been working great. We would highly recommend your site to anyone who needs to fix anything!

Pulled old seal off. Used rag to wipe off door as per instructions from my wife. Pushed new seal into groove around door. Longest and hardest part of job was unpacking new seal.

I should have ordered start kit instead of start capacitor. The start cap astir did not fix problem so I ordered kit. Compasator comes as part of kit. Followed enclosed instructions. Cut existing wires and reconnected new wiring. Simple as that. It's a plug in item. Now worried it may be working to good. Freezer down to 10 deg. Watching to see if compressor is running to long. Seems ok lol. Wife hates me now. She wanted new frige.

Removed 2 hex screws & old hinge, placed new hinge on cabinet & found that it didn't fit; one hole was about 1/8" off. Had to drill a new hole in cabinet top in order to attach new hinge. Hinge works fine now. I'm glad to find the hinge is metal; original one was plastic.

per the video..easy installation....unfortunately the temperature did not improve. We still have a refrigerator temp in the upper freezer.....and a "cooler" in the refrigerator section

Exactly as the video showed, except I had to take the evap coil cover off and use a hair dryer to thaw it out. It was still frosting up too much, so I ordered the thermostat as well. Both were really easy, once i saw the location of the defrost timer and the thermostat. Thanks for the great site, prices that put the big store to shame, and the good video too!

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

I removed the back panel of the freezer using a nutdriver and located the defrost heater under the evaporator. It is strapped to the evaporator with aluminum straps that could not be undone without removing the evaporator (which would involve recharging the system and I have no tools to do that). I cut the straps with a nipper near where they were folded over each other (toward the bottom), and removed them. Fortunately there is a lot of extra strap, so I was able to remove the eye of the strap and reuse them. I removed the old element and installed the new, and wrapped the removed straps around the heater and evaporator where they were before, and plugged the element in. I did this on an old Kenmore refrigerator before also, and it had spring clips for the heater so you didn't have to cut anything. However, reusing the straps as I did resulted in the heater being adequately supported.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test