25368979802 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

new drawer was received within 2 days and was extremely simple to install.

I purchased the door bins on partselect.com and received them in time mentioned. The reason why I had to order them will "melt" your funny bone. Yes, it says right on the bottom of the bin to hand wash them. Being a bachelor, I put them in the dishwasher on the bottom rack. When it came time to take them out, WOWOWOWOWOWOW, they were melted beyond usage. SO, I had to order new ones. Yea, Really funny, I know.

replaced it

The kickplate grille is designed to pop right on ... no tools needed.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

Removed 2 hex screws & old hinge, placed new hinge on cabinet & found that it didn't fit; one hole was about 1/8" off. Had to drill a new hole in cabinet top in order to attach new hinge. Hinge works fine now. I'm glad to find the hinge is metal; original one was plastic.

Thermostat assembly, remove light bulb, remove 1 screw, drop thermostat casing, two screws to remove timer from inside and install in reverse. Old Timer had electric motor and lasted 30 years. New one looks to be electronic with plastic motor gears.

My husband watched the video on your website and found it very easy to do the repair. The repair company that diagnosed the problem wanted $210 to do it. The part I ordered was under $20, and after he installed it the refrigerator has been working great. We would highly recommend your site to anyone who needs to fix anything!

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

I removed the back panel of the freezer using a nutdriver and located the defrost heater under the evaporator. It is strapped to the evaporator with aluminum straps that could not be undone without removing the evaporator (which would involve recharging the system and I have no tools to do that). I cut the straps with a nipper near where they were folded over each other (toward the bottom), and removed them. Fortunately there is a lot of extra strap, so I was able to remove the eye of the strap and reuse them. I removed the old element and installed the new, and wrapped the removed straps around the heater and evaporator where they were before, and plugged the element in. I did this on an old Kenmore refrigerator before also, and it had spring clips for the heater so you didn't have to cut anything. However, reusing the straps as I did resulted in the heater being adequately supported.

per the video..easy installation....unfortunately the temperature did not improve. We still have a refrigerator temp in the upper freezer.....and a "cooler" in the refrigerator section