59676252703 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

My freezer compartment gasket was torn and needed replacement. This was on a bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator. I couldn't find directions for how to take the freezer compartment door off, and figuring out how was the hardest part. Here are the instructions:
1. At least 24 hours prior to starting, remove the gasket from the packaging and lay it out in a warm area, to allow the creases to come out.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. You will have to take BOTH doors off, so put at least the freezer compartment contents in a cooler so they don't thaw. Also remove all items from the refrigerator and freezer door.
4. Remove the refrigerator door first - remove the plastic cover from the top hinge, then remove the 3 metal screws holding the hinge in place. Lift the door up, and it will come right off. Set it aside.
5. Now remove the freezer door - there is one bolt head, for the top hinge pin. Remove it, and lift the door up and put it down on a table.
6. Towards the center, pull up on the old gasket, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it in half. It will take a few cuts, but eventually you will get it out and cut in half. Then remove the old gasket.
7. The new gasket simply presses in. Start at two diagonal corners, then press the other two corners in, then do the straight sections.
8. Now replace the freezer door, then the refrigerator door, plug in the refrigerator, and put the contents back in.

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

To repair the problem,I ordered a new gasket. Once I received the gasket, I laid it flat on the floors and hot the blow dryer and blow out the creases in the gasket. I then took off the door by removing the four screws from the door and rest the door on the table. I then removed the old gasket and replaced it with the new one. It took about 15 minutes. My frig. Stop freezing up.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Just replaced old with new. The glass shelf was good so just moved it to the new pieces. Everything fit perfectly, thank you.

Old gasket pulled of easily with no tools. New gasket was placed on floor and heated with blow dryer to straighten. Then installed new gasket by pressing in with my hands. Noticed that the old gasket was hard and not flexible. All was great. Fit perfectly. No frost after a week. Happy.

Part received was what I needed. There was one issue--the 'feed' opening to receive water and direct it into the ice tray was a side feed and what I needed was a back feed. That means I had to do some exchanging of parts to make it work. That exercise took more time that the actual installation.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.