10658973700 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

We removed the old shelf. Put the new shelf in place and slipped the crisper tray on the new rails of the replacemnet shelf. The crisper no longer falls off the broken rails when you open it. We noticed the replacemnet shelf has metal rails and the original had plastic which is probably why it broke after heavy use over 12 years.

The star device that i recived was a little different, wasn't black like the original a recived a grey one and little bit smaller than the original but it fit perfect, and my frige is working good since i replaced.

Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.

watched video. Very easy

Removed front plastic grill and screws holding the filter in place. Also removed lower back cardboard panel to access water lines. Video on this website told me how to remove water lines from filter, you must depress a collar around the water line while pulling out the water line. Then install the new Water Filter Housing and water lines. The only problems I had was the tight space to work in and one of the water lines was leaking, but pushing the water line in further solved the problem.

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Removed 3 screws on the bottom of old ice maker in the fridge, slid out old ice maker, disconnected electrical cable,took out old ice maker. Take the plastic tray from bottom of old ice maker install on new ice maker, reconnect cable, slid in place, replace the three screws. About 3 hours later water ran in and new ice maker started to make ice. The only thing I missed was I didn't rinse out new ice maker before installation. If you don't rinse out new ice maker you have to throw away the first full bin of ice due to metallic taste.

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

First removed one screw from the bottom right bottom side of the unit. Removed the door from the front of the unit. Pushed up the locking tab on the left underside of the unit and pulled the unit partway out. Removed the plastic cover ( that was retained by the screw removed and disconnected the electrical connection) and finished removing the unit from the freezer. Removed the remaining three screws from the bottom of the unit and installed on the bottom of the new unit. I then slid the new unit partially in and connected the wiring harness and slid the rest of the way in guiding the water line into thepocket which was taller than the origional unit. Reinstalled the wire protective cover with one screw and the front cover back on the new unit. Done and is working great.

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)