59665234403 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Just replaced old with new. The glass shelf was good so just moved it to the new pieces. Everything fit perfectly, thank you.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

My freezer compartment gasket was torn and needed replacement. This was on a bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator. I couldn't find directions for how to take the freezer compartment door off, and figuring out how was the hardest part. Here are the instructions:
1. At least 24 hours prior to starting, remove the gasket from the packaging and lay it out in a warm area, to allow the creases to come out.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. You will have to take BOTH doors off, so put at least the freezer compartment contents in a cooler so they don't thaw. Also remove all items from the refrigerator and freezer door.
4. Remove the refrigerator door first - remove the plastic cover from the top hinge, then remove the 3 metal screws holding the hinge in place. Lift the door up, and it will come right off. Set it aside.
5. Now remove the freezer door - there is one bolt head, for the top hinge pin. Remove it, and lift the door up and put it down on a table.
6. Towards the center, pull up on the old gasket, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it in half. It will take a few cuts, but eventually you will get it out and cut in half. Then remove the old gasket.
7. The new gasket simply presses in. Start at two diagonal corners, then press the other two corners in, then do the straight sections.
8. Now replace the freezer door, then the refrigerator door, plug in the refrigerator, and put the contents back in.

long story, but good experience with Partselect.com...ordered a defrost heater as I had to replace same 15 years earlier, when part arrived I managed to test continuity of old heater in place and appeared fine (unless due to intermittent break that opened with heat) - so went ahead and order defrost thermostat and arraigned for return of heater (kept until testing after installation of the thermostat) - replacement of thermostat pretty easy - be sure to watch video of how to remove freezer rails for bottom freezer.
When I plugged back in the compressor wouldn't start, tried to and then shut off over and over. I had the dreaded thought that either I had put a leak in the coils or the compressor had failed due to overwork with failed defrost mode. Fingers crossed I ordered start capacitor and relay kit...sure enough when I removed the old capacitor and relay - I heard loose parts in the relay and pieces fell out when I shook it. installed new relay/capacitor and the fridge works like new - 21 year old Amana - very well engineered and easy to work on - great videos on disassembly re-assembly - when I replaced the heater 10 years ago I couldn't figure out how to remove side rails - no idea how I managed to pull the bottom of the cooling unit past the rails to remove and replace the heater.
I would recommend doing what I did, unless you are sure of the failure mode - which is to leave the back panel open for a day in the freezer after repair to be sure the defrost mode is working.

Just swapped out new for old. Couldn’t be easier!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

unscrewed old handle and screwed in new one, whalaa. thank you.

Take everything off the top self, lift the self install the new part ,put self back in place and then install the drawers again. Took minutes.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

Remove 3 screws, took top hinge out, fz door and inserted shim...done.

It took longer to empty the glass shelf above the Crisper Bins than to replace the rail. Since the part simply snaps in place, no tools were required

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.