25361783010 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Took longer to clear the top shelf to remove it from the refrigerator to do the repairs. Super easy!

removed shelf. took out screw. replaced support

Very, very easy problem to fix. I took the shelf that the support rails were attached to out of refrigerator. Unscrewed broke piece and screwed in new support rail and simply slid shelf back into refrigerator. Ta~Da! If I can do it, you can do it!

Unscrewed the screw that held the suport rail to the shilf and changed the rail. Then I screw in the new rail.

first i removed the screw from the back of the shelf then pulled the old rail off. I sliped the new rail onto the post then replace the rear screw.

First, remove shelf unit from refrigerator and lay glass side down on a large flat surface. Observe, then pay attention to assembly. Spent more time with this, drinking coffee, and playing with puppy, than the actual repair. Only had to remove and replace two
phillips head screws. Replace deli - meat drawer after shelf unit is in place in refrigerator. Check for clearance for door to close.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

The shelf needed to be removed from refrigerator and then remove the screw and pull the rail from the bracket on the opposite end. After installing the new rail it turned out to be a fraction of an inch too long so I had to file the cracket on the shelf which is metal. The rail slipped back in and was perfect. Easy job.

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

detached with screwdriver and applied the new one the same way. very easy

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

Replaced thermo-fuse

Exactly as the video showed, except I had to take the evap coil cover off and use a hair dryer to thaw it out. It was still frosting up too much, so I ordered the thermostat as well. Both were really easy, once i saw the location of the defrost timer and the thermostat. Thanks for the great site, prices that put the big store to shame, and the good video too!

I took the shelf out and took part off and replaced the new one.

purchased a defrost theromast,took about 20-30 minutes to take apart & put back together.delivery was in one day from the time of my purchase.thanks for all ur help &prompt delivery.