59669942011 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Lift off glass shelf and insert tabs of rail on each end , replace shelf.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

The Condenser Fan Motor was already removed due to searching for the problem. The new fan motor looked different from the original but I felt very comfortable that Part Select had sent me the new part showing original part number changing numbers over the years. Simply placed the fan blades onto the new motor lined up 2 of the holes placed screws and tightened then plugged the wire ribbon into the Condensor Fan Motor, plugged in the Refridgerator and it worked beautifully.

The instruction video on the Part Select Web Site made it so incredibly easy to install. Installation took under 3 minutes!

Just set the glass shelf onto frame perfect fit

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Unsnapped and pulled off small cover exsposing two phillips head screws. I removed larger cover and styrofoam insert fully exsposing the damper unit. i unplugged same and with a 1/2 inch wood chisel was able to release the "snaps" holding the old unit in place. Simply reverse procedure to install new unit.

Followed the demo film on line.
Good instructions

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Replaced shelf, very simple

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

It was so easy just opened the box took out the shelf and plaed it where the old one was. This was the easiest repair ever. Thank you for this website!

remove two crispers and glass top . Replace rail.
Note
This is 3rd time this part in about 5 years has needed replcement. If there is a next time I would expect a "freebe". Service is great and replacement rail came in jig time.

First off, I learned from YTube how to go about figuring out what might be wrong & how to fix it. I watched numerous videos and narrowed it down to the damper as the part to be replaced. I learned how to use the Jazz Board in the fridge to test components & verified the damper wasn't getting signal to open/close. I removed the old damper & put in the new one following what I had seen on the videos. I found a video that had the same type of damper assembly as my fridge & used it to show me how to remove & replace the damper. This was the 2nd part I had to replace to get my fridge up & working. I spent a total of 224.00 on parts and now the fridge is quieter than it's been in years. Finally, if a 66 year old woman can do this, so can you. Just watch YTube & also PartsSelect also has videos also.

Removed & Replaced