10654784801 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Light was blinking on the Electronic Control Boards. Ordered replacement (emitter and receiver)and installed, and now it's working.
Some note: 1 year ago, the board started to blinks (meaning it's bad) but it was still making ice. This gave me a false error when it really failed, took the risk and ordered the replacement parts and all is well now.

One more thing to pay attention to , and it may only be on my model of refrigerator, but the wires harness that connect to the receiver board (big board) have large and stiff wire. With limited space where the board and the wire are seat at, it put lots of pressure on the pressure on the board's connector. This pressure, over time, will cause the right angle connector's solders to crack and may be a contributor to the failure. If you're installing the new board, try to re-inforce the connector with some rubber heat glue and also relieve pressure from the connector's end, which I hope will prolong your board.

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

power off, 3 phillips head screws on either side of freezer. unplg each board, plug new ones in completely. ( cannot mix them up, size difference) replace screws and enjoy ice cold beverages once again!!!!!!!!!

Took off refrigerator door from top hinge and lifted off. A little difficulty getting worn out parts off (needed dremel to drill out worn plastic); replaced with new parts, the screw head holding on the part was starting to be worn as well but still worked. If I hadn't got to this repair soon the bottom of the door aluminum would have total worn out as it is, it has a deep groove but not noticeable. The new cams also force the door closed tight instead of slightly ajar at times.

Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.

To make the repair:
First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker.
Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection.
Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip.
Disconect the electrical wires.
Pull off the motor cover (no screws).
Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor.
Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray.
Insallation is the reverse.
The schematics were very helpfull.
It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me.
PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!

When I took the pan out of the box, it was not the exact same as the one I had. But it fit perfect. The only hard part was the fact that it looked so good I had to clean the entire fridge side. (Smile)

Took out the old one and put in the new one. No tolls required. It did give me the opportunity to clean the back wall of the refrigerator.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.

My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

Shut off water supply. Unplug refrigerator. Removed lower back cardboard panel. Removed two screws holding inlet valve bracket to side frame. Pulled valve out far enough to gain access to water lines and electrical connectors. Used 9mm open end wrench to press in collars to remove water lines from inlet valve. Used small container to catch water dripping from lines. Removed defective valve and replaced with new one by first pushing water lines into respective openings, make sure they are fully seated. Reconnected electric wires. Installed inlet valve on side frame. Replaced back panel. Plugged in power cord. Opened water supply. Flushed about 2 gals of water through system. Note: water may not flow immediately due to air in water lines.

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

It was the right part at the right time. I had ordered parts through the retailer from Whirlpool but they were not right. I found the part number on the Whirlpool website and ordered it from you. Once it came it was a thirty second fix. Thanks.

J. Keith Miller

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.