25361704407 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I snapped the parts into place. The fact that the parts I recieved were original parts from Frigidaire made all the difference. I feel if the parts had been after market parts they would not have fit so well.

After waiting over 2wks for my part to arrive, I purchased the part locally and made the repair the same day as I am still waiting for the part to arrive from you guys. Your customer service really needs improving. I paid for 2 day shipping, what a joke. I will be returning the part as soon as I receive it thanks.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

With the help of your parts breakdown, illustration and videos it was real easy to replace motor.
Must take care with plastic cover
Thank you
Larry Bisson

First download schematic from frigidaire.com and watch a few youtube videos on fixing refrigerators .At first my guess was the timer was stuck on the defrost mode .However after studying the schematic I checked to see if the power was being sent to the compressor through the starter ptc .The 110 v was there after pulling off the connector .Also the condenser fan was on confirming this . however the compressor was stone cold .the compressor has 3 inputs whose resistances across all seemed good (see youtube videos) so it was probably the ptc starter or the 15microfarad capacitor .I changed the capacitor first -not the problem .then the ptc starter .immediatey the compressor started warming and after a few minutes cold air was being blown in .Very satisfying !

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From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Just snapped them into place without any problems! The parts were exactly what I was looking for.

removed ice maker,,and screws holding back of freezer cover,unplugged wires and removed the cover and fan.wow,only wire to element had come unplugged!went ahead and replaced thermostat,and defrost timer,both were easy to do

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

opened thepackage snapped in place .took all of 3 minutes