10632249101 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed ice maker held on by 3 screws, took out 2 screws holding back panel, removed 2 screws holding bracket for fan motor, replaced evaporator fan motor and everything works great. Beware of thin splines, I have large hands and bummed up against them and slice one knuckle in 3 places which bleed profusely.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

After ordering the ice-maker, but before it had arrived, I installed a valve in the pex water line in the room right below the fridge. I had to rent a pex clamp kit from Home Depot. It cost $8 for 4 hours and came with the crimpers and band cutters. I then ran a poly line to an in-line filter which I mounted to an exposed stud and fished the line up the wall and out a small hole I drilled behind the fridge. When the ice-maker came, it took less than 30 minutes to install and start my first batch of ice. With the in-line filter, the ice forms with practically no sediment flakes. Part Select was the only place I could find a replacement ice-maker. In addition to the parts in the ice-maker kit, I had to buy 12 feet of poly water line, a ball-valve, the in-line filter and a compression fitting. A total of $20 at my plumbing contractor store.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

I actually followed the instructions by William. He did a great job. I ran into some difficulty because the wire connector on the replacement motor didn't match the old connector. We had to replace the connector on the new motor to match the wiring harness, which was easier than trying to match the connector on the motor. Had the connectors matched, the replacement would have taken less than 30 minutes to complete.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

First i pulled the electrical plug from the socket so the refrigator was off than I removed 5 screws (3 of those holding the ice maker). pulled the icemaker toward the front and removed it I than took off the back of the freezer panel,(the back panel was removed by pulling the top of the panal towards me it came right out of the freezer) I removed an additional 2 screws holding the evaporator fan motor. Than I used pliers to squeeze the mounting bracket tabs (white tabs BOTTOM OF MOTOR BRACKET). I then disconnected the electrical FAN MOTOR PLUG and removed the motor. i than pulled the fan blade from the motor (fan blade is only a pressed onto the motor shaft.I than pressed the fan blade back unto the fan motor and reversed the above directions

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

unplug, turn water off, remove ice maker & unplug,remove back panel remove old fan unit & unplug remove fan remove fan blades just pull off install new fan, put fan blades on new fan & install on bracket & re install plug in re install back panel. plug in ice maker re install ice maker . turn water back on plug refrigerator back in ( quite easy )

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna