25344502603 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed video on your site. It was very helpful.
Thank you.

Unplugged refrigerator from the wall plug. Removed ice tray cover, removed ice container, lossen the two screws on the ice marker holding it to the back of the fridge, dropped the ice marker down and unplugged the electrical connection. Then removed the ice maker.
Took the new ice marker, plugged the electrical connection back into the back of the new ice marker, screwed the two screws back in where the ice marker goes and tighen the screws to told the ice marker in place.
Replaced the ice container, replaced the ice cover.
Plugged the fridge electrical cord back in to the wall socket.
Done.
It started making ice again in about 10 minutes.

Remove the old ice maker by loosening the screws and disconnect wire harness , next fit new ice maker in place connect wire harness and place new ice maker in place put screws in and tighten.

Installed a new Defrost Thermostat.

removed ice denspenser and replaced spring and flap'

PURCHASE:
Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the
terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the
wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached
is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner
liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple
crimp splice and shrink tube.

TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available,
it is highly recommended that the new part be tested:
You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one
very easily per instructions found on line.
TEST RESULTS-
a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open".
b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an
hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".

I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally
one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.

HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT):
A) Prep
Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm.
Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily.
Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make
re-installing the many components easier.
Gather tools from the attached list.

B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)

C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may
get in the eyes.)

D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers)
1) ) Upper Drawer:
a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are
on each side, toward the rear of the drawer.
b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and
lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4".
c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a
5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver.
d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer.
Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs.
e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly
to clear the track.
f) Put the drawer out of the way.

2) Lower Drawer With Front Door
*Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when
reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap.
a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door
can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor.
b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way
to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs.
c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling
is required. Repeat on the other side.
d) Drag the towel and door out of the way

D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer.
1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger.
It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket.
2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip
to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out.
3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be
removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the
left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.

E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off)
1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold.
2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside.
3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way.
4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.

F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall)
1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free.
2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover &
thread the thermistor free.
3) Set the cover aside.

G) Remove The back Wall
1) Remove all visible hex head screws.
2) The back wall can now be removed.
3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges
are a little sharp

H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation
or plastic components will be damaged.

I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner.
The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.

J) Install The New Thermostat
Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the
correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)

Ordered new ribbon cable. At first I couldn't figure out how to get the wide end of the ribbon cable off, and I took the whole inner circuit board out - in fact, all it needed was more muscle, a straight pull out, no clips or anything holding it in other than friction. The narrow end attached to the control button board has two clips which pull towards you to loosen the ribbon. Easy install, worked perfectly

Easy to remove the auger Motor and Solenoid, however, it didn't fix the problem. $300.00 into it I now have to purchase a circuit board for $382.00. Not a happy camper.

Before removing door, remove everything from on the door including the shelves, then close the door. Using a step ladder to access the top of the door, I removed the plastic hinge cover at the top of the refrigerator door using a Philips head screwdriver, remove the screw located at the back of the cover and slide the cover forward and up to remove. This will expose the two 3/8 machine screws that hold the top hinge bracket. Remove the screws using a socket or wrench. Then lift up on the hinge bracket from the top of the door to remove it. As long as the door is closed it will remain stable with little pressure to keep from falling. Then lift the entire door from the bottom hinge assembly and lay it across an arm chair or flat elevated surface so you can access the bottom door hinge bearing. You will see a bracket screwed to the bottom of the door with two 1/4 machine screws, it is the door stop bracket and this has the door hinge bearing inserted through it. My bearing was broke in half , the first piece fell out when I removed the door and the other piece was still inserted in the door. I removed one 1/4 screw from the stop bracket and loosened the other screw to allow the bracket to swing away from cavity that holds the bearing. Using needle nose pliers I remover the broken piece of the bearing. This part is nylon or plastic and can be cut into pieces if need be to remove it. Once removed, I cleaned the cavity, reinstalled the stop bracket assembly then inserted the new bearing. Gently align the door to the bottom bracket and set it in place, a second set of eyes may help. Once the door has been seated and in the closed position replace door bracket and the two 3/8 screws at the top of the door, check the alignment before you tighten. Check door operation! Then tighten the screws and replace the plastic cover by pressing down on the cover and sliding it back to align the Philips screw to be replaced .

Unplugged freezer, used digital multimeter to test defrost thermostat, temperature sensor, start/run capacitor and start/run relay for compressor motor. Found ohms values for start/run capacitor to be out of range and carbon traces on relay base where capacitor connects. Replaced capacitor and relay. Plugged freezer in and compressor immediately started running. On mid-range temp setting, empty freezer, temperature alarm light went off in 3 hours. Freezer has been functioning properly since repair was made. My husband is a licensed elevator mechanic with a background in electrical troubleshooting. He tested the components and completed the repairs.

I had a repairman here and after spending 350 dollars after 4 visits and parts, I decided to try it myself. I ordered a compressor start relay and a run capacitor. Replacement took all of 15 minutes and now runs again for the first time in a month. Thank you Parts Select. You’re the best!

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Tested the start relay and capacitor with a multimeter and determined they were both bad (thank you, YouTube!). Ordered both here and they arrived in 4 days. It took me less than 15 minutes to install both; the appliance is working better than ever! The parts were very easy to access and replace.

Removed old water valve w/ screwdriver, cut threads off old hose (as they just plug straight into new valve) & pushed hoses into new water valve. Solved both problems!!!!

Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.