10658709803 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Paul from Green Valley, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10329686
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
old part cracked and broke
easy - remove the door, replace th part, put back the door
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- Customer:
- stu from richmond, VA
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
fridge door switch did not work
I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!
Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.
Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.
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- Customer:
- dorotea from staten island, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light didnt go on
The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!
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- Customer:
- Joyner S. from MIDLOTHIAN, VA
- Parts Used:
- EDR3RXD1
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Time to replace filter.
I pushed the lever on the filter located at the bottom of the refrigerator and it popped out.
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- Customer:
- Camille from Glen Ellyn, IL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Freezer was icing up and leaking. Refrigerator side would not keep cold.
We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.
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- Customer:
- rich from PEMBROKE PNES, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Top half of freezer & fridge were not cooling. Freezer fan had been making unusually loud noises.
Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.
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- Customer:
- Frank from BERKELEY HTS, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10329686
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Machine Leaking Water
I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!
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- Customer:
- TAMMY from SAN ANTONIO, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2260518MG
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
cap clasp broke
trashed old one, slipped new one on.
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- Customer:
- John from New York, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP2260518B
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Water filter cap snapped while trying to remove water filter
Do not try to pull out the water filter by the cap. There is a button that releases the filter so you will not have to replace the cap. The cap twists onto the filter. When replacing the filter, the cap goes onto the new one.
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- Customer:
- Joe from San Antonio, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2220457
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the coupling had broken
Emptied the ice holder, then removed the two screws located in the bottom of the ice holder. they were holding the metal cover in place, once removed I was able to remove the entire rotating ice prongs which moved the ice into the chute. I had to do this because the screw that held the coupling on could not be removed (too tight) Once the entire rotating device was removed I could easily remove the screw and replace the entire assembly.
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Lexington, KY
- Parts Used:
- 8201515
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
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- Customer:
- Louis from PELHAM, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP2198641
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Ice Maker cocker Bracket broken hinge
Easy repair. Remove 2 hex bolts. And remove.Install Bracket and replace 2 hex bolts and reinstall ice maker door to bracket. 10 minute repair.
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- Customer:
- David E from EL SOBRANTE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 2159083
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Replaced door gasket and hinge closers on Refrigerator door.
I just followed the excellent Video for both parts. The door gasket is tedious but doable, just take a deep breath and press on. Putty knife is handy to push edge of gasket under the plastic lip. The closer devices take 3 minutes - simple R&R. Check the videos - they're pretty clear and detailed.
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- Customer:
- James P from Mansfield, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2255720
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Ice Maker door broke off
Snap the new one into place.
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- Customer:
- Howard from NEW BERN, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPW10329686, WP2182179
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After installing parts, door should drop when it closes, but it drops when it is fully opened.
It's as easy as it can be, but the parts are not the right ones.
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