59676253700 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This is the small part that is critical to having a fully usable refrigerator but one that no one (even an authorized shop) has in stock. Just pop it back in, and you're done.

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Icemaker quit working, so replaced ice maker...was still not working, so realized it was the water inlet valve. Pulled fridge away from the wall, unplugged electrical, removed one screw from old water inlet valve, removed it, unplugged electrical connector, cut one inch of tubing going into inlet of new valve (per instructions). Put back in place, plugged in, and now making ice again. VERY EASY!

Pulled out broken parts and snapped/ pushed into place new ladder hooks 15 min max

Took the new kick plate out of the box. Snapped it into position. I have had a repairman for this refrigerator before. I would rather repair an appliance than buy a new one. I'm very proud that I thought to get a replacement part myself instead of calling my friendly repairman again. Saved a few dollars.

I looked at a video on YouTube that described how to check if the water inlet valve was working. By using an ohm meter, it indicated the water valve was bad. I could hear the ice maker trying to make ice. I ordered the part; it was shipped that day. The email confirmation also had a video on how to change. I watched and changed it out quickly. The valve is easy to take out by disconnecting the water line and quick disconnect electrical line. (Turn off water and unplug unit). I took pictures of my steps so I could remember the valve orientation. The new valve went in the same way in just 2 minutes. I needed a 1/4 inch nut driver.

We had a full ice tray in 24 hours.

Our freezer door handle popped off and I learned how to put it back by watching a YouTube video.

I am not handy at this type of repair but this was a great experience. Thank you!!

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

Followed Youtube video from Free Repair Help. Only problem was getting down low enough to see the pins on the Compressor to plug the replacement Compressor Start Device and Capacitor-could not replace the old clip to hold the unit to the Compressor like the old unit had. At 77 I just have a problem bending over.

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.