25344352405 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

There is PG and E employee working in one of the electrical post that cause the electric surging,there is a 3 big bang then we smell burning wire.it blew and burned the compressor relay,so what i did is figure it out, all 2 refregirator fan is running the heater is working,but its not cooling, when I touch the compressor there is no vibration,so all i did is removed the compressor relay, and I found out that the wire is burned and melted the connector, i order the relay from parts select and install it.1.remove the capacitor and install it to the new relay. 2.put a new connecrtor from the wire.3. install the compressor relay.easy as 1,2,3.

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Emptied the shelves off door and pulled door off fridge swet on counter and took out old plug and put new one on.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Took me weeks to find the noise after I checked everything electrical in the house including replacing all batteries. Finally, an electrician isolated it to the refrigerator.

Frigidaire Model FRS26LH5DS9 Found several YouTube videos for reference.

Replaced the Run Capacitor and Compressor Start Relay.

Unplug and remove the back panel. On the bottom left side, detach the two old parts together from the compressor. Use a large flat screwdriver to pry them out. (They are held in place with a wire you must first remove.) Plug one new part onto the other and then insert it as one part.

Easy Peasy. The hardest part is getting your hand in a small space and putting back the wire that holds them in.

Don't call a repairman - fix it yourself....