59676573602 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

Empty drawer and take out . remove glass shelf and front and rear shelf braces. remove 2 screws holding pantry end cap to fridge. remove rear bracket by unsnapping clips. remove temp control arm. and reattach to new end cap. reinstall rear bracket to fridge and align end cap, align screws and tighten. reinstall drawers and shelf brackets. replace glass shelf. and reattach lid to brackets. Open beer and enjoy success.

When the gasket is delivered it will be folded. You will need to unfold it and leave it on a flat surface for several days. Keep it as square as possible, and heat the kinked portions with a hair dryer on high heat and slow fan while molding kinked portions with your hands for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Do that 2-3 times per day. When it looks 90% uniform with the non kinked portions, you can install it. Installation takes less than 10 minutes. Clean the metal edge of the freezer well. I recommend taking the door annd frame off (This is remarkably easy. THe door and frame pretty much lifts up and out after you hold the rail clips inward) because the lower edge is so close to the floor. The just pulll off the old gasket. There are no screws or clips. Starting in any corner, press new gasket into place. Go around the perimeter several times to make sure it is pushed in fully and evenly. Then reinstall the door and frame.

It was easier than I had anticipated. Just had to make sure that I was very careful in removing the old part so I did not break any of the good plastic that I needed in order to install the plastic temperature control to the new part.

I removed and replaced the right pantry end cap, as well as the drawer lid.

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

I followed the remove and replace instructions in the Part Sect video when I ordered the seal. Pulled out the old seal by hand and installed the new seal. No tools needed, very easy. Took 10 minutes at most.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

replaced inlet valve per insert with part, easy

First I removed the pantry drawer; then the two crisper drawers and glass shelf. Then I removed the hex screws that held end cap in place. Removal of cap from refrigerator was complicated by the adjustable temperature control - it is loosely attached at the back of end cap and also has to be removed to get cap out. Gentle persuasion accomplishes this. Getting the slider off end cap also a bit difficult. Then I removed the drawer glides. Reversing all steps was fairly easy and the rest of the "fix" went well. I wished that there had been some written directions - or at the very least, a diagram of how all went together. All in all was still cheaper than repair person.