59677539600 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Broken bottom drawer lid mount

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Removed the back cover for the HV Board. Unplugged the cables from the old board, put the new board in the same exact way, connected the cables. Put the back cover back on. The hardest part was the programming. You may need to read it again in order to figure it out, but not too difficult. Face it there are only so many buttons, eventually you will go "AH-HA" ! I saved myself around $250! I will most definately use this site if I have other appliances that do not work! You guys rock!

~Lisa~

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

We ordered the part by phone at about 4pm on Monday, and it arrived via Fed Ex at 10:30am the next day. WOW. My husband fixed it in about 5 minutes. Removed the old mullion with a socket set thing and screwdriver. Unscrewed the screw, slid the mullion up, disconnected a wider that is inside. Then he lined up the top and bottom plastic parts, reconnected the new wire, slid the new mullion in place, and screwed it on.

It was a very simple operation to replace the parts and required essentially no tools, just a small screwdriver to pry up a tab for removal of the chanel on the front edge of the frame. This chanel had to be removed from the old crisper frame and installed in the new one. In addition the crisper control" had to be popped out of the old frame and into the new frame. Most of my time was spent cleaning.

Unplug Refrigerator access panel in the rear unscrews- disconnect the wire harness from circuit board- remove board (snaps out). Insert new board ,attach wires close access panel. Plug refrigerator in. reprogram fridge code with ice maker controls code is on label with model number and s/n number.

I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

First it was critical to have gone on-line to see that many other people have had the EXACT problem with their Maytag refrig. It went crazy at 830pm the Wed before Thanksgiving! There would have been NO WAY that we could have had that repaired with the holiday! I went to Parts Select and ordered the part that very night ( they were open and taking customer service calls until 11p EST). They had the part to us first thing Monday morning!

The installation was simple and they provided perfect instructions as to the programming of the code.

I cant believe that Maytag has not dome some sort of recall on the control board for these refrigerators. When we looked at the old one, there was moisture on the plastic panel and the 2 capacitors were corroded and bulging. We are going to try and get those replaced, so we have a spare board.

It was a whole lot cheaper to replace the board, and many would just resort to paying a repair bill of >$500.00 for the cost of a $200.00 part and about 15 minutes. You dont have to be an electronics major to fix this either!

This whole thing saved us well over $2500.00, as we are not buying a new refrigerator. I will say that we will never buy another Maytag at this point! All beware and might want to have an extra control board handy!

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

Receive the parts. Review the video. Thought I can do this got down to the screw and I didn’t have is a ratchet small enough to remove the screw so I had to call D.O.C appliances to do the install Michael was here less than 15 minutes

Very simple--Just remove all drawers, remove old end cap, remove slider from old end cap and put on new one. Screw on new end cap and replace drawers. Took about 10 minutes.