25376832403 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I replaced the defrost timer, really easy, 4 screws popped the cover of the electronic area (top of refrigerator compartment) took it out and plugged in the new time. Unit still would not defrost, so replaced the thermostat as well. Bit harder, removed ice maker, 2 screws, back plate from freezer, 4 screws. Thermostat was clamped to a copper tube- the original had one of the wires hanging out of it- cut the wires and crimped the new wires on, shrunk the plastic tube with blow dryer over the wires (taped them for good measure) and so far so good. Learned most of this through these tips, so keep reading if this isn't your problem, just save myself $1000 on a new refrifgerator...

The repair was very, very easy. The old Gasket was easily removed by pulling at (1) of the (4) corners and simply pull from slot around the full perimeter of the door. No tools of any kind are needed. Replacement of the new Gasket was simply to again start at (1) corner by pushing new gasket into the perimeter slot and using fingers push into the door grove all the way around. This install took no more than 10-15 minutes max.

Don't ever tell your 11 year old to clean the refridgerator. Something will almost definetly get broken like the glass shelf, but luckily I had parts select which in no time assisted me to find the exact part. I ordered the part, it came quickly and I replaced within seconds.
Thanks.

The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others.
Take care-Bill

Replaced the old bins with the new bins...The most important part of the story was finding this website and locating and ordering the necessary components...that was amazing - a few clicks of the mouse and my new parts were on their way.

i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.

since I had my fridge since 2003 it seems that I've gotten my moneys worth but it has worked flawlessly with no issues. I did not want to part with it so I troubled shoot the system and realized that it could have been number of things so I just decided after reading some reviews here on this site I decided to just purchase the items that would be effecting the fridge not working properly which was the evaporator fan, defrost thermostat, defrost timer, temperature cold control thermostat, I also cleaned the condenser coils in the back of the unit so they can be able to withdraw heat from the unit. my repair and installation took about 4 hours due to the cleaning of the coils but now the fridge is working like brand new. thanks to this sitt and it's comprehensive video tutorials on installations and repair it my job a lot easier to do.this is not my first time ordering from this site and will not be my last. anyone considering ordering from this site do not hesitate there are great with parts and customer service.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

It takes a 1/4 " nutdriver to take one screw out that holds the cover over the water filter. You have to come up from the botton of cover. Then take two water lines off housing , by pushing the round collar back toward the fitting,and pull fitting off housing. Then take the two screw out that hold the housing on. Make sure you have the water turned off before you start.

I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.

At first I tried to insall the new gasket with the door still attached to the refrigerator. It was difficult to assure that the bottom of the gasket was properly installed at the bottom. As a result I removed the door from the refrigerator, finished installing the gasket and then put the door back on the refrigerator

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.