10657442702 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

It was the right part at the right time. I had ordered parts through the retailer from Whirlpool but they were not right. I found the part number on the Whirlpool website and ordered it from you. Once it came it was a thirty second fix. Thanks.

J. Keith Miller

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

I found a repair guide online to check the resistance of the motor, thermostat, and heater mold. The resistance of the motor and heater mold were both a little off from their recommendations. I had an assumption that it was the motor but I decided to just buy the whole assembly basically for spare parts and I didn't feel like messing around with it any more. The new icemaker was not just a drop in replacement as part select told me because the Icemaker Bearing and Cup Assembly was larger than the original one. Thus, I had to switch it with the old one really quick so instead of a 3 min job it was 20 or so.....

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

I removed the two screws holding the cover door, then the three on the uder side of the icemaker assembly. I carefully worked the old unit out; it was a tight fit. The most difficult step involved disconnecting the power assembly. Due to the space, it was hard to get hold of each side of the clip to pull it out. After the old unit was out, just reversed the steps and had the first batch of ice in less than an hour. (I washed the new unit with warm water and soup as it had grease/lubricant on it when taken out of the package).

Opened the box, removed the old shelf, attached the new one.
Is that easy or what?

I removed the cap from the filter pushed a lever and removed fliter. I replaced the old filter, removed the caps on the new one and slid it into channel after replacing the outer cap. I removed water from the spigot for 4 mins. and it was ready to go. I pushed the reset button to get the green light to come on.

Just put the new one in.

I got model number off my unit and order the part. That was after trying a lot of different filters first. I did a rush order so I got it in 2 days. Pulled the unit out to shut the water off. Then took the back off so I could take the 2 screws that hold the water value . That way I wouldn't have to go back and forth. Now I went to the front. I already had had the vent cover at the bottom of the unit off. I had a head lap on so to make it easier to see under the unit. Then I use the nut driver or you can use 1/4 inch drive ratchet with sockets. To take the 2 screws out that hold the filter housing. Then lift the spring wire that is on the left side of the release botton. Then push the wire up out of the way. Reach back and pull the water value forward so you have slack in the water lines. Now you can pull the fliter housing out to you. Now release the 2 water lines by pushing down on the rings around the water lines and hold while you pull the water lines out. Now the old water filter housing is free you can set it to the side. I inspected the new filter housing for any deformities and cracks before I started installing. Now I hooked the water lines up by pushing them into the right size spring ring hole. Once lines was all the way in I pulled back on the water lines to make sure they were locked in place. Then I put a new water filter in and turned the water on to make sure of no leaks. Then I put everything back together in the reverse order I took it apart. Then I check the spicket to make sure everything was working right. After that I was able to push the refrigerator back in and then wipe everything up and I was done.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

Took the broken cap off. Actually it practically fell off. Put the new cap in place, turned it to the right and Presto! it locked in and works fine. It took longer to get it out of the box than it did to install it :)

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.