10632949101 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

install ice maker 2 screws wire harness pluged in done

I unplugged the capacitor which allowed access to the on/off relay. Unplugged the old broken one and plugged in the new one. All better.

Sent model #..all of maytag parts have part # printed on them..snaps off and new part snaps on!!! Great!! They do have assistance to help you repair,but wasn't needed..i know who to order from now for any appliance!!

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the old gasket and ran the hard edged lip into the opening behind the door liner. Concerned that the gasket does not seem to be attaching itself to the door well. First put it on the side of the refigerator and it would not adhere enough to support itself. While it closes it just doesn't seem to attach with the magnets in the gasket. These magnetic strips have a weak magnet side and a strong magnet side. I wonder if they put the wrong side facing the door when they assembled it. Counter this with a new gasket for an upright freezer which was twice the length and attached itself firmly to the side wall of the freezer and did not slide down.

I suspected the frig thermistor so I cut wires to the original. The new part was not a direct replacement, but was adaptable. I’m not sure the frig design would allow for an OEM replacement anyway. I clipped off the useless connector on the new thermistor and spliced the thermistor in by soldering wires appropriately. That was a bit difficult due to the short available length of the wires, and it didn’t solve the problem. Since it seemed like the damper responded normally to power-off resets and diagnostics using the onboard control buttons, I decided the main control board pretty much had to be the culprit. It was. Replacing the board was a piece of cake. Only a 1/4” nutdriver required, plus maybe a small screwdriver for prying here or there. Happy to have the frig working again.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Inserted scraper behind gasket breaking it free from door, permitting a hand hold. While putting tension on gasket, slid scraper around door gently removing old gasket. Replaced gasket starting at top gradually working around door. No need to remove door.

I followed the instructions on the video you provided with my order. Removed the freezer door and used the putty knife to loosen the old gasket and installed the new one. I'm a 77 year old female and if I can do it, so can you.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!