10670239900 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

Removal of the door gasket went quite fast. First i needed a 8mm wrench. That what I didn't have. Got the socket set, not the wrench. Tried adjustable wrench, went slow. I slowly got the bolts out. Putting the gasket on was slow. Then I get to the last corner, was awful for me. I finally get it on. Putting the freezer door back on 1st went crazy. I finally looked on top of refrigerator, saw (3) bolts, removed them, installment went easy from there.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I ordered a new one waited for the new ones to come in once it did I took out the old ones and replaced them with the new ones. It was simple.

I first replaced the icemaker assembly but that didn't fix it so I bought and installed a new inlet valve and that fixed it. This video shows exactly what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdHG_6LpdL4
The icemaker didn't start right up so I jumpstarted it by shorting out terminals T and H as shown here.
https://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-module.php
The wheel should start to turn. Just make sure to remove the jumper wire when the wheel has turned between 1/4 and 1/2 rotation.

Watched the video from whirlpool and it seemed to be relatively straightforward - but as I am afraid of electricity and not much of a DIY guy I had a friend over to supervise - initially diagnosed a leak at the water inlet valve - but after ordering the part online ($75) and before it arrived about 6 days later I started to investigate the valve - initially I could not release the plastic tube from the valve (output to the ice-maker) but I pushed a part or two and managed to release it - when the part arrived I bought 6ft of tubing from a local store who sold it by the foot as opposed to HD who sold a 25ft tube - I also decided to buy new braided stainless steel to go from faucet to the inlet valve ($10) - put together everything when the valve arrived and did not take long to put everything together - time mainly spent after checking leaks - tea towels and small towels around fridge - to my dismay after few days discovered fridge was still leaking at front - so checked a few videos and thought origin of leak must be evaporation tray - so placed a bowl under the overflow on inside at the back of fridge and it seemed to catch the water and no leaks - so I tried to get existing evap. tray out - not easy - clipped into a slot at back of fridge and released that but still struggled to get tray out - eventually forced it out but in doing that I split the tray - so I was not sure that was issue as I had split the tray forcing it out - however looking at the base of fridge where the tray was the surface was v rusty and rust was there on foot of tray - so I assumed that was issue - ordered a new tray ($20 I think) - looking under fridge after I forced out the tray I noticed there were two clips that held the tray in place - but could not see them when tray was in place - so I took some pliers and forced the end of clips up to make it easier to get the new tray in place - so when I received new tray only went in easily - then tested a few days - found a little leak at faucet so tightened the water line nut - so now just testing that water in evap tray does in fact evaporate- so far so good - I'll leave a few more days then attach back cover of fridge and push back fridge to where it should be -I will always wonder if I needed to replace the inlet valve but the experience was worth it as it gives me confidence to attack other jobs - most of my time spent testing for leaks after replacing parts

Watched the video...easy!

Retainer bar was a little long but husband used a saw to make smaller (the part said it was a similar to my model- Maytag no longer made this made) It was perfect -- ow I have a whole new usable shelf!!

Unplug fridge, turn off water to fridge
Uninstall ice maker (some tools needed)
Remove ice buildup inside water line

Purchase new ice maker and installed it while watching a youtube video of how to do it. Once installed, turned on the water line and plugged in fridge.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.