25361732800 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

just followed the instructions from part select website - everyone is a repair man with the easy to follow and attention to detail the videos provided - time will tell I replaced the defrost timer and thermostat at the same time - the refrigerated was running a lot and the freezer was icing up on the back right of the freezer compartment mostly - " it has been doing this since the day we bought it from sears - we had a repair man over more than once but still had the same problem and had to max out the controls to keep things close to were they were suppose to be temperature wise. we also purchased a few extended warranties The freezer was running around 15 degrees and running all the time. The heating element checked out at 35 ohms so it must be ok. Will let you know in a few days. One serviceman even tried to say it was frosting up because we didn't have ac lol

1 went with maj 69% said defrost timer. NO. 2 went with second choice run cap NO. 3 went with my thought, ( PTC Starter ) why not, most exp part. Fixed the problem.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

Using your online troubleshooter, it was probably the defrost timer and/or the defrost thermostat. Both cheap so I ordered both. The online repair videos showed how to replace those parts. Replaced the timer first with no problems. Removed the panel at the freezer back an saw a streak of black smoke on the white panel wall above the thermostat. Good chance this was the failure point. Video also showed how to replace this unit without any problem. Set the temperature control and let the frig run over night. Problem solved!frig at 38d and freezer at 0d.

followed the video very esay

I watched the videos (they really help) and followed the steps. Everything went smooth with no surprises

jump thermostat,fan and compressor came on, ordered thermo from this excllent parts supplier, part came in 4 days later, it was exact replacement, works exactly right!

Exactly as the video showed, except I had to take the evap coil cover off and use a hair dryer to thaw it out. It was still frosting up too much, so I ordered the thermostat as well. Both were really easy, once i saw the location of the defrost timer and the thermostat. Thanks for the great site, prices that put the big store to shame, and the good video too!

Instructions from partselect were very clear and probable cause made it easy to narrow things down. I have the manual for the refrigerator that shows the location of the defrost timer. Very surprised that it turned out to be a cheap and easy fix.

unplug fridge,Then take rack out n remove the 2 screws on the icemaker set aside,then remove 2 screws on the back panel, cut wires n splice in new part! put back the same.

Checked defrost timer. It was a shocker: it was completely burnt out. Replaced it with the new part very easily. I thought now it would defrost properly but unfortunately the thermostat also was shot. I had ordered it along with the timer just in case. It was not expensive at all and I saved time but having it with me when I replaced the timer. NOW ALL IS WELL AND REFRIGERATOR SECTION COLLING PROPERLY. THANKS TO VIDEO AND PARTSELECT.

After some troubleshooting to ensure the thermostat and heating element were working, determined that the defrost timer was the problem. With the defective part, I was able to manually advance the timer to activate the defrost cycle, but it wouldn't do so on its own. Unplugged the refrigerator from the wall. Timer is located in the refrigerator compartment at the very top. The compartment houses the cooling thermostat, the light bulb and the defrost timer. Using 1/4" nut driver, remove 4 screws holding compartment cover to top of fridge. Lower a bit to access electrical wiring. Wiring harness can be unplugged to work on the timer away from the fridge which makes it a bit easier. Timer is mounted with 2 phillips head screws. Remove screws and unplug timer from wiring. Install new timer, plug in wiring, secure with the phillips head screws and remount entire compartment.

I should have ordered start kit instead of start capacitor. The start cap astir did not fix problem so I ordered kit. Compasator comes as part of kit. Followed enclosed instructions. Cut existing wires and reconnected new wiring. Simple as that. It's a plug in item. Now worried it may be working to good. Freezer down to 10 deg. Watching to see if compressor is running to long. Seems ok lol. Wife hates me now. She wanted new frige.