59679512010 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched installation Video on the website parts. I put the new gaskets in bath tube in warm water for a few minuets until the gaskets were warm and pliable. I removed old gaskets cleaned door facing and installed new gaskets as instructed on video. Thanks for the information on how to install because I was dreading trying to do this task. "Just follow and listen to the instruction on Video".

These guys had my part mailed in lighting fast! It arrived in 2 days in a padded box in perfect shape.The price was the best on line and they saved my life one day before thansgiving!! They got my vote and respect! Great job partselect!!! walt , crete illinois

Just pulled out theold and squeezed in the new. I forced it and it went in.

Could not figure out why this was happening suddenly. Then remembered I had recently changed the lid to one I had stored for over two years in the garage. They had sent me a replacement lid when the unit was less than a year old because the origianl had a crack in the clear section. Noticed it seemed a little warped. Thought I would replace it to see if that solved the
problem.
We had to replace the side panel of the draawer because the warped lid had broken the peg off of one side. I didn't want that to happen again.
The new lid did the job....This company is the only one I will use in the future for my appliances. Very easy to find parts and the pricing was better.

Removed the middle screw and the whole rail came of. Unplugged wires and removed old rail. Plugged in the new rail and slid top and bottom slides on and put on the middle screw. Job finished

Removed the old frame and removed the metal rod from the front of the old and slide it in to the new frame.
Then I took a piece from the old frame, measured the distance to the center of the two shelf brackets mounted inside in the rear of the refrigerator. Then I drilled two holes in the salvaged piece and mounted the piece as a support under the new frame using #8 sheet metal stews. This will prevent future breaks.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

Remove the existing mullion rail:

- Remove the screw from the center hinged cover.
- Remove the mullion rail by pushing upward. The top and bottom hinges slide over tabs attached to the door. I had to bump it gently from underneath.
- Disconnect the three wire connector that's underneath the center hinged cover.

Install the new mullion rail by reversing the above steps:
- Connect the three wire connector and snap it into its holder.
- Slide the new part over the top and bottom hinges. Be sure that all three hinges are correctly lined up before sliding the rail over the tabs.
- Push it down far enough that the hole for the screw in the center cover is lined up with its corresponding receptacle in the door.
- Replace the screw.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

It was a very simple operation and was done in no time.

Doing it myself saved me at least $100.00 or more.

I was very happy and satisfied with the part and how doing it myself saved me a lot of time and money.

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

I broke the left side end cap the holds the pantry door on.
I search the internet for the part and happened to run across part select. I order the part and received the part with in 3 business days. It took less than 30 minutes to replace the end cap.

The great reviews help me with my choice to order the part from part select. I will order parts from them again.

Thanks for helping me fix my fridge.

I ordered a right & left gasket but when they arrived there was no indication of which was the right or left one...so I just had to guess...I easily lifted the old gasket away from the door & removed. Then starting at the top began inserting the portion that goes into the groove with the help of the table knife, continuing down both sides..then sat on a stool to push the bottom section into place...Had to go back over several areas to reseat but finally closed the door to hopefully set the gasket..Drank some hot tea, then removed the left gasket & began the process all over...The extra flaps ended up on the left side of the door so I may have to remove this side and reposition...I'll check it in a few..then will blow all with a warm setting of the low dryer to continue helping the molding process..

you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.

I replaced the control board first. The freezer back panel frosted up and the refrigerator warmed up again. Then I force (short option vs long) defrosted the refrigerator. However, a few days later the defrost issue came back again. Force defrost no longer worked, though likely due to a severe ice build up behind the freezer panel. I ordered the wire harness. I took off the freezer door (loosen four screws only), removed the tray rails, ice maker, thermostat housing and vent mounted on the freezer panel. The rails and the vent are a bit tricky to remove since no directions exist. I then removed the fan above the coils and then removed the wire harness. Installing the new harness is easy except that I had to modify one of the ground connections for it to mount properly. I tested the unit for 72 hours. The defrost cycle eventually kicked in (dripping onto a pan and sizzling sound). I then reinstalled all parts. No frost build up. Good to go!