2536080240H Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed front low grill, removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Reversed process to install new timer.

just like the video showed...it was excellent!!!

took 4 screws out of the discharge vent on top of the refrigerator section and unpluged the wiring harness and put the section on the counter and unscrewed the timer and put the new one in and reinstalled the assembly and plugged the Jack and put the 4 screws back in, and rotated the timer and put it on defrost removed the back and check the heaters and drain .

It's a pressure fit. Squeeze the ends and snap it in.

Just snapped right into place.

Used wood blocks to raise the door off the lower hinge bracket then unscrewed the suspect hinge. Cut a small shim, two layers of soda can, to place under the lower edge of the new hinge bracket and doubled the washers by using the old one to ensure I had adequate clearance for the door. After a little silicone lube I installed the new hinge bracket. All better now.

I order defrost timer then replaced it but it seemed doesn't work. I order defrost thermostat again then it worked fine until now. Thanks. Part selects.

Defros timer was easy I finished it in about 15 minuts but the defrost themostat was hard.I had ploblems with the wire conectors and the tape I had to use Twist-on wire connectors.I hope I will not have problems later.So far 1 week later it is working.I can't belive $50 saves me $600.Thanks to Part Select for the video and how fast they shipping my parts in less than 2 days.

The shelf was out too far to be used on the bottom shelf. The top shelf, which was not as deep was then moved to the bottom and it worked fine. I am wondering if the shelf that was not as deep as the part I received is available. Thank you - maxine

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

Called handyman and provided him with the parts. He took less than an hour,.

just followed the instructions from part select website - everyone is a repair man with the easy to follow and attention to detail the videos provided - time will tell I replaced the defrost timer and thermostat at the same time - the refrigerated was running a lot and the freezer was icing up on the back right of the freezer compartment mostly - " it has been doing this since the day we bought it from sears - we had a repair man over more than once but still had the same problem and had to max out the controls to keep things close to were they were suppose to be temperature wise. we also purchased a few extended warranties The freezer was running around 15 degrees and running all the time. The heating element checked out at 35 ohms so it must be ok. Will let you know in a few days. One serviceman even tried to say it was frosting up because we didn't have ac lol

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

Popped the new retainer bar into place. Put the jars back where they belong. No worries! Couldn't have been less trouble.