25344359409 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Tested the start relay and capacitor with a multimeter and determined they were both bad (thank you, YouTube!). Ordered both here and they arrived in 4 days. It took me less than 15 minutes to install both; the appliance is working better than ever! The parts were very easy to access and replace.

The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.

If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.

In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.

Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.

Hope this helps someone. :)

I just removed the filter and then removed the filter housing. The housing is mounted using two screws. The only difficult part was removing the elbows from the water in and out lines. I don't believe the elbows are reusable. So I would go ahead and order new elbows when replacing this part.

Removed old water valve w/ screwdriver, cut threads off old hose (as they just plug straight into new valve) & pushed hoses into new water valve. Solved both problems!!!!

Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.

Followed the online video from this site

Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.

The housing is not the same where the wires attach. I had to cut off the plastic shroud around barbs on start relay to accept the original larger wire end Fittings.

Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.

Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !

My husband researched the possible causes on line and watched some of the videos that were posted on your site. I ordered the 2 parts which did come in 3 business days. My husband and son completed the repair in under 30 minutes. Unscrew the upper hinge assembly on the top right door, lift the door up so that the lower hinge pin is free. Remove the old worn closer plate and hinge bearing. Replace the door, replace upper hinge hardware and check alignment. (It was also a good time to do a thorough cleaning on the coils underneath the refrigerator and check the evaporator pan.)

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

Followed the instructions using a internet tutorial. No problem.

I followed the instructions, my ONLY issue was about the Part 46 the Ice Dispenser Actuator Rod. The front of the arm has flared out grooves and it didn't warn me about making sure the rod is properly aligned thru part 23 Front Plate or else when the ice maker actuates the rod it will not move properly if the grooves are not aligned on each side of the Front panel. I hope you can understand what I mean, if not just look at how the Part 46 rests in Part 23

The repair went easily after watching the video, took me less than an hour to complete the repair.