10660522900 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Prior to ordering I removed freezer panel and checked for ice build up and fan functionality. Then removed rear panel cleaned lint from everything pulled front panel vacuumed out the condenser. Plugged back in and all seems to work with the exception of compressor. I have a little experience so googled in model number and your site popped up. I looked up part and the site gave me a percentage loved that. I ordered wish I would have rushed shipping as took about 10 days. Installed in less than 30 minutes and all runs great ??

Very easy to install

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

I first read the instruction manual then I watched the installation video. My water line to it was 3/8. Went to the local ACE Hardware to purchase a short peace of 1/4 copper tubing and the fittings to connect them together. It makes ice every 55 minutes.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Don not completely remove holding icemaker screws. Unit slips over screws and drops down into place and the use nutdriver to tighten in place. Rest of unit was sound and wasn’t replaced.
After icemaker is installed wait for a while and unit self activated and creates ice cubes.