59672009011 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

It was easy, remove clips and install new basket hanger and then just clip on the clips.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Laid out new gaskets in sunlight to make them pliable. Removed old gasket by gently pulling them out of the channels around the door. I then did the reverse with the new gaskets. Starting at the top I pushed the new gasket into the channel, moving in one direction around the door. Make sure the outer lip of the gasket does not fold under itself. It should lie flat on the surface of the door. It is truly that easy.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Replaced ice maker, but new one drips.

No tools required, but you must be careful not to shove or jam this kick plate into place as it is a plastic part and not really very sturdy. This is the second time I have replaced the kick plate and PartSelect has always been knowledgeable, polite, and helpful
!!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

The glide was very easy to put on; however it is easiest to put in the front screw first, due to the thickness of the glide. Pretty easy!

Looked at several videos on line in order to learn how to remove door and and all trays and bins and remove ice maker. Mostly straight forward. It helps to have a second pair of hands and eyes to assist. But could be done alone.Never did this before but I would say that, with a little courage, anyone could do this. I had a local repair estimate of almost $300. I did the job for the cost of the part, $80.

I replaced the icemaker assembly.

Removed the plastic frame, washed the frame and fridge, set new glass into the frame.

Appliance Tech did the install. He did have an issue getting the cover off where the mother board was. But finally succeeded.