25361789011 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I took out the screw and removed the old rail, then I used the same screw to install the new rail. It took me 2 to 3 minutes. Very easy.

Super easy. We unscrewed the broken rail, and screwed the new rail into place. Much easier than expected!!! We were also pleasantly surprised to have the part arrive the day after we ordered it!

took off bad part-- 1 screw-- took every bit of 3 min. to change

First, remove shelf unit from refrigerator and lay glass side down on a large flat surface. Observe, then pay attention to assembly. Spent more time with this, drinking coffee, and playing with puppy, than the actual repair. Only had to remove and replace two
phillips head screws. Replace deli - meat drawer after shelf unit is in place in refrigerator. Check for clearance for door to close.

The first thing I did was to remove all the food from the shelf above the drawer. I removed the old support rail that is attached at the rear of the shelf by one phillips screw. I installed the new support and secured it. Partselect was a great place to purchase the part and they shipped the part quickly.

I Removed the old broken piece and replaced it with the new drawer support, using the screwdriver it was a very simple operation.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

The shelf needed to be removed from refrigerator and then remove the screw and pull the rail from the bracket on the opposite end. After installing the new rail it turned out to be a fraction of an inch too long so I had to file the cracket on the shelf which is metal. The rail slipped back in and was perfect. Easy job.

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

took the old one out, put the new one in. Will be an ongoing problem due to the flimsy nature of the rack. Refrigerator is in a rental unit. Great to know parts a just a phone call away, and arrive super fast.

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

The Hardest Part Was Taking Everything Off The Shelf,Took Old Part Off And New Part Popped In And I Tightened The Screw And That's It Done!Thanks PartSelect!

I took the shelf out and took part off and replaced the new one.