59676063702 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

I could not determine if the solenoid water inlet valve or the ice maker unit was bad, so I replaced both.
In this model of the refrigerator, the freezer is a drawer on the bottom, so this makes access to the ice maker mounting a little tricky. The need to contort to reach into the back made this take longer and was more uncomfortable than expected. I needed to completely remove the screws for the top brackets, even though most instructions indicate you can loosen these and lift the ice maker off. Be careful to properly re-seat the water guide that directs the water from the inlet tube to the ice maker. That tended to interfere with re-connecting the wiring harness to the back of the freezer. Again, this was likely difficult because of having to bend over into the freezer.
The ice maker needs to be in the freezer for about 12 hours before the sensor in the black wire is cool enough to allow operation. I did not know this at first, so I was initially worried that there was a bigger problem. If you want to use the test functions with a jumper wire, be sure the door switch that controls the freezer light is depressed.
The solenoid value replacement was fairly straightforward. I found it useful to use a small open wrench to push the compression lock for the value-to-ice maker water tube to remove the old solenoid. Otherwise, replacing the water valve was simple.

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.