10658716803 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

PartSelect found and shipped the part quickly and with low postage directly to my door. I didn't have to worry about not being at home to accept the part and having to make a trip to the post office with a yellow slip.

It was so easy. I had no idea. My husband and I were directed to your site and we ordered the part with scepticism but with hope that it would solve the problem. As soon as it came in, my husband installed it in five minutes. It was working immediately. Thank you.

I used the computer to enter the make and model of the refrigerator with the icemaker unit. We looked at the diagram to identify the name of the part and then ordered it. It was sent out the next day! We received it and installed it and it works perfect!

Super easy fix. Inserted shelf in to the shelf frame. Attached frame to refrigerator mounting bracket . Done in less than 5 minutes.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

I followed the video on this site. It was a pretty easy repair. Unplugged the fridge and turned off the water. Took off the bottom front panel. Used a nutdriver to remove the nuts holding the old filter housing in place. Unhooked the metal hook shown in the video. Disconnected the water from the old housing and removed it. The water line was a little short but I was able to reach in far enough to disconnect it without having to disconnect the line from the back of the fridge. Then I just reconnected everything to the new filter housing and installed a filter. Once I turned the water back on and plugged the fridge back in, it had better pressure than it ever has. Just watch the video and follow along.

Looked up on you tube to verify and see "secrets" to installation.

watched video on your website and followed directions

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

1st step is to watch the videos already available. Hands down... can't beat them.
Step 2 is copy what was done in the videos.
The only other piece of info I could suggest is when you remove the water line going to the filter housing from the solenoid valves is to tie/tape a piece of string onto it so you can find it when you reverse the procedure to put it back together. I am 70+ years old and do not bend in the middle, so the string would have been a great thing and would have lessened the frustration of trying to find the end of the tube.
Otherwise... happy sailing!

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.