25361534805 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged refrigerator. Emptied freezer and removed ice maker and cover, need to unplug fan. Defrosted coils with hot water. Cut wires to thermostat as close to it ad possible to leave extra wire in case of an error. Stripped wire in new thermostat and put in shrink plastic then the wire crimp connector joining both light blue wires making sure wires were in before crimping them. Repeated with other dark blue wire. After used the heat gun to shrink the protective white tubing. The only thing i found not satisfying was tge tubing. It was too wide and too small. When i shrunk it did not cover the whole connector and was loose. I had to use a glue gun to cover both ends of each wire connector. Hope this helps other users.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

The repair was very easy just popped the new one in place.

The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil.
I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil.
The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.

I had to loosen the screw holding the mounting block and increase the hole size to fit the screw on refrigerator

replaced it

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

Replaced thermo-fuse

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

I watched the videos (they really help) and followed the steps. Everything went smooth with no surprises

jump thermostat,fan and compressor came on, ordered thermo from this excllent parts supplier, part came in 4 days later, it was exact replacement, works exactly right!

My husband watched the video on your website and found it very easy to do the repair. The repair company that diagnosed the problem wanted $210 to do it. The part I ordered was under $20, and after he installed it the refrigerator has been working great. We would highly recommend your site to anyone who needs to fix anything!

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.