59665333700 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

long story, but good experience with Partselect.com...ordered a defrost heater as I had to replace same 15 years earlier, when part arrived I managed to test continuity of old heater in place and appeared fine (unless due to intermittent break that opened with heat) - so went ahead and order defrost thermostat and arraigned for return of heater (kept until testing after installation of the thermostat) - replacement of thermostat pretty easy - be sure to watch video of how to remove freezer rails for bottom freezer.
When I plugged back in the compressor wouldn't start, tried to and then shut off over and over. I had the dreaded thought that either I had put a leak in the coils or the compressor had failed due to overwork with failed defrost mode. Fingers crossed I ordered start capacitor and relay kit...sure enough when I removed the old capacitor and relay - I heard loose parts in the relay and pieces fell out when I shook it. installed new relay/capacitor and the fridge works like new - 21 year old Amana - very well engineered and easy to work on - great videos on disassembly re-assembly - when I replaced the heater 10 years ago I couldn't figure out how to remove side rails - no idea how I managed to pull the bottom of the cooling unit past the rails to remove and replace the heater.
I would recommend doing what I did, unless you are sure of the failure mode - which is to leave the back panel open for a day in the freezer after repair to be sure the defrost mode is working.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

To repair the problem,I ordered a new gasket. Once I received the gasket, I laid it flat on the floors and hot the blow dryer and blow out the creases in the gasket. I then took off the door by removing the four screws from the door and rest the door on the table. I then removed the old gasket and replaced it with the new one. It took about 15 minutes. My frig. Stop freezing up.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

Just replaced old with new. The glass shelf was good so just moved it to the new pieces. Everything fit perfectly, thank you.

After checking the water valves ordered new ice maker. received the part three days after ordering! Clearing out food, removing the old one and installing the new unit took under 15 minutes. Everything went fine.

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

Pull refrigerator out from wall to shut off water and power. Remove ice bin, pulling front down then out. Remove screw at bottom of icemaker, then pull down to release two clips, Pull out a couple inches to get hand behind icemaker to release wiring harness connector. (squeeze top and bottom to release clips). Remove unit. Remove wiring harness and wire bail from old unit and install on new unit. Reverse steps to install new unit. Make sure ice bin is fully inserted, or unit will not function.

Part received was what I needed. There was one issue--the 'feed' opening to receive water and direct it into the ice tray was a side feed and what I needed was a back feed. That means I had to do some exchanging of parts to make it work. That exercise took more time that the actual installation.

replaced the entire ice make - 3 screws and a squeeze -off connector and it's out. Reverse to re-install... except that the fill tube had iced up. To thaw the fill tube: unload freezer section (leave food in fridge, but keep door closed), remove ice maker. Boil water, dip drill bit (dull end) into hot water, swirl around, insert (dull end) into to fill tube. Depending on how hot you got it, maybe a tablespoon of ice will melt. Repeat many times - fill tube is about 14" long! Do not use anything sharp - you will nick the tube and ice will form causing you to repeat this procedure. Do not try to break the ice - let the heat work. It took me about 30 minutes to thaw the whole thing - it made a nive gasping noise when the final plug opened up. Re-install ice maker.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.

knelt down, positioned replacement kickplate; popped into place, stood up!

took longer to open the box and peel bubble wrap off item than to replace it!