59667252701 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Loosen the screws on the sidewall (don't take them all the way out and drop them on the floor as I did) and remove the screw from the bottom bracket. Change out the electrical wires and the wire level sensor that does not come with the new unit. Put the new one in place and give it some time to cool down and make ice ( don't be impatient like I was and think the new unit was bad or that you replaced the wrong part)

Removed and disconnected the icemaker, cleaned all areas and disassembled the failed parts. Reassembled with the new parts inlcuded with the purchased package and resinstalled the unit. Started the unit and chedked for proper operation. Successful repair.

First had to remove baskets and door from freezer. Removed three screws; removed old ice maker; Attached new ice maker with three screws; removed arm from old ice maker and placed in the new ice maker. Replaced door and baskets

This was a very easy fix. I took the old ice maker out, including the electrical harness. Switched the harness and stop bar to the new ice maker on my bench, then installed the new assembly. Ice initially had some hollow cubes. I checked the ice maker for level. But it was fine. Thought it might be moving too fast. But it seems to have cleared up. Perhaps it took some time to completely cool down.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Model#MBF2255KEW (bottom Freezer) Turn fridge and freezer controls OFF. Move fridge out away from wall to give yourself working space and to clean later. Disconnect electrical plug from wall. Turn off water supply at wall or floor. Put down towel to catch excess water and disconnect water hose at water supply, lay it on towel. Move to the inside of freezer and remove freezer bins by pulling the door all the way out as far as it will go and then lifting by the handle up. locate the two hooks in the back and push forward to clear the bar and move to a safe location. Push the two rails all the way back into the freezer. Un plug wire harness from freezer by squeezing both side of the plug at same time and pull off. Remove the 3- 1/4" nut screws (2 at top and 1 at bottom ) from the ice maker and remove. Take the front cover, Wiring harness and wire bail from old ice maker and place it on the new ice maker. Install new ice maker and connect the wiring harness plug to the freezer connection. Hook up water line hose and tighten. Turn water on and check for leaks. Plug fridge into wall outlet and set refrigerator and freezer controls to 3 until refrigerator is cold and then set as needed. Give the ice maker from 3 to 6 hours to freeze and wait for that magical sound of ice being dumped into the bin. Throw away first batch of ice to make sure there are no impurities. Check for the delivery date of the new ice maker before you start and have coolers and ice for perishables. I removed the old one on the delivery date and cleaned the fridge and freezer inside out. I came to this page to get my repair plan and I hope this will help someone else.

The video of the installation was the best help I have ever had. Rather that vague written instructions that are usually so poorly written they are of no help, the video showed exactly how to do it. I wish everyone provided videos like this!

Did not have to remove the complete ice maker. Only the front part that housed to motor assembly. Two Clips removes to cover and three screws removed the motor unit and the rest was in reverse. No wires to disconnect or connect. It just plugs in to unit. Works great and cheaper than from Sears Parts Direct shipping cheaper also. Will buy from Part Select again.
Thanks, Ron

Arrived soon than expected. Unplugged some wires, removed face plate, 3 screws--install and do reverse.

Easier than I would think---Saved $150- to have someone else do it.

Works fine.

Removed old ice maker, had to use the wire shutoff from old ice maker installed new one. Very easy repair, very nice product cheapest price on internet.

I performed basic troubleshooting to make sure there was power and water. Based on historical research on this particular ice maker, I decided that the best direction was to replace the entire assembly. I found this item on this site, ordered it and received it a few days later. I basically removed the ice pan and a few items in the freezer, removed the three mounting screws with either a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver, pulled the electrical harness out of the back wall of the freezer and transferred it to the new ice maker and then installed the new unit, really that simple. Iwas concerned at first, not seeing any activity in the new ice maker but after 15 minutes or so I heard ice falling into the ice bin. Well worth replacing seeing how simple this job was.

after reading reviews on changing the control module I decided it couldn't be very difficult. I was rewarded because it wasn't. It took less than 20 minutes to change the module. At first I was concerned because the wheel did not start turning as soon as power was connected. I discovered this is normal and 30 minutes later the icemaker was making ice again. Simply remove the 3 screws, carefuly pull the module away from the shutoff arm, and pull it out. putting the new one in is the exact reverse. You just have to realign the ejecter cam in the icemaker with the new module so it slides right in.

Remove bottom screw loosen 2 top screws unplug connector from back of icebox. Lift up and pull forward. Swap front cover full bucket stop bar and wire (plugs in) reinstall 10 minute job

the diagnosis was the most difficult step.. and trusting that the one visible nut was the only thing holding it on.. (there are 2 other clips that you need to use a little force on to detach). remove the ice maker (one nut, 2 clips, detach plug).. then remove the 3 screws holding on the 'face' , pry face off, you will see where the 'contact' has burned/melted/worn away. replace unit. 80% of the time, this is the problem (according to my research)

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.