10657342700 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

changed the starter connected to the compressor

Removal of the old assembly went quickly once I
understood about the "push and release" tubing
connectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release".
So to install the new valves, I simply by passed
the old inlet assembly and used the extra push
splicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to the
filter. All the other connections were easy push ins.
Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

I had falsely assumed that the ice maker control module was the problem, so I ordered a new one and replaced it. Still no ice. Upon closer examination of the whole unit, I noticed the heating element had a corroded spot, and checked it with a continuity tester, and found it was bad. I ordered a new complete ice maker unit, and it was actually easier to replace the whole unit rather than just the control module, and only cost about $20 more. I was able to return the control module for a full refund. I would highly recommend replacing the whole ice maker if it is not working, rather than just the control module. It is also handy to know that there are little "ports" on the control module for testing all the functions with a multi-tester. One for the motor marked with an "M", "T" for thermostat, "H" for heater, "N" for neutral. Had I known all this from the start, it would have saved me a lot of time and trouble replacing the wrong part!

Remove the cover plate from the bottom. Use care and patience when performing this step. It takes longer to remove the cover plate than replacing all of the parts involved. Slide off each switch, unplug electrical connectors and trust me when I tell you that you can figure out the rest. E Z, E Z, E Z!!!!!

The CAUSE of the LEAK were the O-rings on the water filter itself. My son followed others suggestions on how to detach the water hose from the filter housing, advise was helpful. After replacing the water filter housing, helpful, and inflow water tube the leak was still there. So my son then inspected the water filter and replaced. Water filter light was still green so we did not think it needed attention.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Repair was easy and producing ice within five hours.

Review the video on parts select. Do this first!

The actual repair took less than 30 minutes, including pulling out the refrigerator, performing the repair, and replacing the refrigerator.

Remove the screws holding the cardboard backing to the bottom rear of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the pump in place. Remove the electrical connectors and the water hoses from the pump. I needed the wrench to disconnect and reconnect the main inlet hose. Hook everything back up (the sizes of hoses and connectors are different). Replace the cardboard backing. Done!!

I would use Parts Direct again.

After watching the instr. film I found it very easy to do.
This is what motivated me to do the job and save a LOT of money. It was actually the second repair I did.

Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

watched video. Very easy