10657442701 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

It was easy, I followed the instructions on the paper and it went well.

I took a 1/4 nut driver and removed the wire cover. I then used a small screwdriver to push up the clips the lock the unit in place. I then unplugged the unit and removed. I then used the same nut driver and removed the bottom plastic cover and installed it on the new icemaker. I then put the new unit part way back onto it slides, being carful to make sure the water fill spout clears the unit. Next I plugged in the wire harness and then slid the unit the rest of the way in until it locked in place. I then reinstalled the wire cover.
This unit was delivered at 1:30 and it was installed by 2

changed the starter connected to the compressor

took the old motor out and replaced it with the new one along with the drive shaft.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

followed the instructions on the box

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Repair was easy and producing ice within five hours.

Easy as pie, I followed the directions on the box that the replacement filter came in, and installed it and the cap simply and easily.

PartSelect was fantastic and I would recommend them to anyone! Online, Sears only showed a parts breakdown so I went to the service center. They could sell me an ice maker but PartSelect had the same ice maker for $35 less and it was on my door step the very next day! Mu husband plugged it in an we were on our way. You have been very easy to work with. I was amazed at the delivery time and I will use you in the future!

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

This was a pretty easy repair...I removed the retaining screws and slid the assembly off its tracks. Disconneting the wiring hardness was a pain but after a few minutes I had that off (use gloves, it gets cold in the freezer after a minute)

Once I had the unit completely out of the freezer the replacement part took only minutes to replace.

Reversed the process putting the ice maker back in - a few hours later my ice buck was full again.

Simple repair - well worth the effort.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

Ice Maker quit working. Seemed like a water supply issue but when I read the other reviews, I decided to install and see. bolted the bracket on with three screws, slid in place. Nothing happened and about 10 minutes later, I heard the water release to the ise maker and have been making ice ever since.