10632852010 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

The fridge was prepped for an ice maker but was never installed. After much aggravation of people not filling the ice trays I gave up and installed the ice maker. This is probably the hottest summer on record, and we were going thru a lot of ice. Lost a little real estate in the freezer by the ice maker but it was well worth it. Now I know I have fresh ice for cocktails in the evening!Install was fast and easy. A little longer than usual because I had to run the water line as well.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Switch off power at mains outlet. Pull off the front trim panel on the control box at top of the refrigerator compartment (it is just clipped into place). Behind are two screws which you remove. Remove the bulb and also two screws underneath and towards back of the control box. You can then pull down the control box. The defrost timer board is now visible and can easily be switched out (it comes with instructions how to do this). This job too no more than 20 minutes and saved me buying a new refrigerator at $1000.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

Per instructions

Unplugged refrigerator. Unplugged ice maker and took out three screws holding ice maker. Put new ice maker and attached three screws. Plugged ice maker in. Plugged refrigerator in and ice maker began working. Threw out first ice cubes made. Unit now working fine.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I watched your repair video, read the instruction enclosed with the icemaker and made the repair in about 15-20 minutes. There is an issue that others need to be aware of once the water pump is repaced and the tubing is connected and the icemaker is installed and turned back on; it take 20-30 minutes to pump the air out of the line and the for the water to actually fill the the fill tray (you made the install correctly, the delay in filling is not covered by either the video or the book just be patience don't disconnect and reconnect anything it will eventually fill and make ice and less than 48 hours). This vendor offers 4 star customer service at a fair and resonable price (I priced the parts separately prior to purchase and the kit is the way to go). I received the product within 3 days, shipped groung delivery. I would use your products and online service advice for installation on other appliances in the future if needed. You have earned my trust, and repeat business in the future; and I will gladly recommend you to others. Your customer focus and service is second to none. I am a fully satisfied customer!!sincerely, a. Walker

After removing the broken glass I inserted the new shelf piece. It fit perfectly and was very easy to install!

Replacing the thermostat was a very easy process. Couple of screws and then just matched how the existing one was installed.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.