59678283804 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The part just snapped in. super easy.

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

Opened the bottom freezer door and pulled the gasket out of the groove. Pulled it out around the door and put the new one back around the door and the pressed into the groove. There was one place that a flat spot didn't take shape so I used a blow dryer to heat it up some and now it seals perfectly.

It took longer to empty the glass shelf above the Crisper Bins than to replace the rail. Since the part simply snaps in place, no tools were required

Replaced seal on door. Same problem. Went to Lowe's and got several magnetic cabinet door catches. Attached them to the top of the door. (they can be seen sticking up), with the magnet part screwed to the door and the metal plate attached to a small wooden block glued to the top of the body with contact cement. Cost abound $16.

"To infinity and beyond."

Popped out the old light switch with a butter knife from the bottom first, disconnected the plug in. Install was just the reverse. Super easy fix

got the new part, took the old part out and snapped the new part in! Very easy. Thank you.

Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

Bought new crisper from Parts select followed directions on how to replace. Replaced in a bought 30 minutes.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

Watched the video that was attached with part invoice. Video made it easy to perform since I’ve never done this task before.