59678289803 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

We snapped the new one on correctly this time.

It is as easy as is shown in the self-help video. (1) Disconnect the power, (2) Roll the appliance out so you can get to the back, (3) Using a nut driver remove all the screws from the lower back panel then remove the panel, (4) Remove the tensioner wire, (5) unplug the electrical connection to the capacitor, (6) gently but firmly remove the capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (7) preassemble your new capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (8) now simply reverse your steps for installing and you are done! These two parts saved me the cost of a new refrigerator. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. PS: while you have the panel removed you can do a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and vacuum.

took about 15 min just took off gasket with flat screwdriver cleaned and put it on no glue it has magnets very easy

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Removed old starter and capacitor as per your website instruction.
Plugged in new parts.
Compresser turned on

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

The part arrived as expected. I detached the existing mullion rail using a socket wrench and disconnected the wires, which was as easy as pulling two pieces apart. Then I connected the wires to the new rail, slid the part into place and used the socket wrench to secure it. As easy as could be and good as new! In total, it took a matter of minutes.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

I contacted partselct to see if I could get the end caps with new hinges to correct the problem. My customer service contact was very professional and a huge help in helping me select the correct parts. When the parts arrived I was amazed they were genuine whirlpool parts, fit perfectly, and were easy to install. I have other parts to order and will use partselct again. I appreciate everything they did for me to solve this problem.

I replaced the control board first. The freezer back panel frosted up and the refrigerator warmed up again. Then I force (short option vs long) defrosted the refrigerator. However, a few days later the defrost issue came back again. Force defrost no longer worked, though likely due to a severe ice build up behind the freezer panel. I ordered the wire harness. I took off the freezer door (loosen four screws only), removed the tray rails, ice maker, thermostat housing and vent mounted on the freezer panel. The rails and the vent are a bit tricky to remove since no directions exist. I then removed the fan above the coils and then removed the wire harness. Installing the new harness is easy except that I had to modify one of the ground connections for it to mount properly. I tested the unit for 72 hours. The defrost cycle eventually kicked in (dripping onto a pan and sizzling sound). I then reinstalled all parts. No frost build up. Good to go!

Removed the old gasket by pulling it out of the groove and installed the new gasket using my fingers to push the gasket into place.

Very easy-slightly bend the end piece to fit over the peg.

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!