10672522110 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

After checking all connections I determined the ice maker which had been replaced on 01/2007 stopped making ice. I had serviceman from a local company return and check the ice maker. He rinsed the ice maker under warm water, melting the ice build-up and re-installed the ice maker. I watched him do the re-installation, then waited for two days to see if the ice maker was functioning. Since the ice maker wasn't working, I called the serviceman, who in turn informed me that the replacement ice maker had increased in price from $170.00 to $274.00. That is when I contacted your web site, ordered the replacement ice maker.
I was totally amazed and pleased by the fast,
easy, and efficient way my order was processed and the ice maker was delivered.
I followed the instructions included with the ice maker, and installed the replacement ice maker in about 20 minutes. I can't thank you enough for the great service. I only wish I had checked my computer after the first ice maker broke down and found your web site.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

Easy removal. Easy Plug and play install. Didn't even have to use the other wires. After install, put 4 oz of water into ice maker and wait....it didn't start making ice right away, but a couple hours later I heard the wonderful "ice dropping into the bin" sound. Worked great ever since.

1.removed 3 nut screws-2 on top &1 on bottom.
2.unplug ref. from outlet.
3.unplug the wires from ice maker to ref.
4.remove ice maker
5.rinse new ice maker
6.plug ice maker to ref. using included wires
7.screw 2 top nut screws first then the bottom.
8.plug ref. back to outlet
9.made first ice in about 2-3 hours

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

Removed the ice maker. Used a small mirror (wife's make up mirror) to find the screws. Inspected and found most teflon coating missing. Ordered new ice maker and installed. Works perfect.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.