59675239404 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

To keep from having to pay the appliance repairman $100.00 for a diagnostic fee I just started replacing parts that were known for causing this problem. First I replaced the compressor switch and capacitor that didn't work so then I replaced the damper controller then I replaced the control board then I saw that the evaporator fan wasn't spinning so I replaced the evaporator fan motor and the bimetal defrost thermostat. That was the problem I wish I would have checked that first. But it works like new now.

This gasket is just friction fit into a molded groove. Easy to pull out and replace.
When I googled looking for how to.. all sites described unscrewing a keeper. None described that this (and maybe others) simply has the push-in design.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Your service is wonderful! I found the part on my mobile phone with a very quick and simple search, then I called in to order. The ordering process took less than 3 minutes, and I had my new shelf in three days. I dreaded ordering, because I just knew that the replacement shelf would be super expensive, but the whole thing cost much less than I expected--less than a dinner out. Thank you so much for your efficient and friendly service!

You need to lift up the glass part and simply fit it the center rail in, very simple

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

No instructions came with the parts, however, on the website where we ordered the parts was a video that walked you through every step. We followed the video and had the repair done in no time.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.

very quickly took old out and popped new one in place using a popsicle sttick to make sure new gasket was seated

R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin