10662154110 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the flat panel inside freezer & fan blades not turning. I removed 2 1/4” screws, unplugged wires took fan motor out & put that fan blade on new fan motor. Plugged wires into new motor replaced 2 bolts, reinstalled flat panel plugged refrigerator in & reset temperature controls. The next day checked temperature and was all done.

I just followed the directions on the video of my specific model. Make a note of where to locate that video of your model, as there are many other videos of other models that can have different parts located in different areas and it can be time consuming finding the exact video you want again.
Also note that you must make mental or written notes on exactly what direction any parts you remove are facing, this can save huge amounts of time when reassembling.
I was worried that I might need other parts, but decided to do one part replacement at a time since this unit is a spare and no urgency to get it back working again. I found that the evaporator fan was the only thing needed! The fridge works like new again!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

Using a screwdriver

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Make sure you order the right parts. The bar needs 2 caps so don't make the mistake of only ordering one. Once you push in the end caps into the retainer bar, gently insert bar into slots on door. Right parts will create a perfect fit.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Swapped out evaporator fan motor, solved the problem!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."