10659099990 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

shut off water supply behind fridge then released trapped water pressure in the line at the dispenser. Locked off dispenser controls (push button switch). Removed nozzle retaining screw and pulled out nozzle approx. 3 in. to cut off tubing at black pipe so as to use the old pipe as a guide/pull (fish) for the new pipe by joining the end of the new nozzle to the cut and of the old pipe with electrical tape.Then pulled the old pipe from bottom of fridge while simultaneously feeding/pushing new pipe from top. I had to remove lower grate on fridge to access the pipe on bottom. Remaining coupling connection on bottom was done by hand to avoid stripping plastic coupling.

Put new drawer in fridge.

At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.

The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control box to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.

First, I read your instructions on line about how to replace a refrigerator gasket and freezer gasket. We replaced both. The information was extremely helpful since we had never done this before. We then loosed a few screws at a time starting with the outside door corner and worked our way around, replacing the seal as we took off the old seal. Leaving the old seal on as we worked our way around gave us the clearance we needed to insert the new gasket behind the metal plate which holds the gasket to the door. Your easy to use web site made ordering easy and delivery was unbelievably fast. Thanks.

It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.

Turn off water supply line fridge. Removing front panel is a must to allow acces to spout and water line. Be careful not to crack front panel $90, it snaps in from the botton, slide a stiff putty knife along bottom edge and gently pry outward to remove. Remove 2 screws that hold spout in place, then cut water line right behind spout. The tricky part is fishing water line down through door. You need to splice new line to old with double sided screw or something with threads that will prevent the lines from pulling apart, then pull water line from bottom of door by hinge, very tight when pulling through hinge opening. You will need to remove vented dust cover at botton of doors to acces the water line. The line has a threaded coupling so unscrew and drain water then cut new line to length. There is a small metal insert in old line that needs to be removed and inserted into new line before attaching coupler. I could perform this in half the time now that I have done it once.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.

To get the coupler off the motor shaft I took two adjustable wrenches and slit the old coupler where it was cracked.The threads on the motor shaft were stripped closest to the motor.I took two thin washers and put them on the motor shaft so the new coupler would not turn down to where the threads on the motor were sripped.Since the threads on the coupler are left hand they keep the coupler tight as the motor turns the dispenser auger to dispense the ice.I was a bit difficult to unplug the wiring harness but got it after we used a screwdriver to keep the tab bent down until the harness was unplugged.

After replacing the defrost timer, I thought that the problem was solved, but it cam back. I finally realized it was the evaporator motor when the motor started turning after I tapped the cover (inside freezer). I knew it should be running because I turned the timer manually with a screwdriver through the defrost segment. Tips to the replacement are: 1. unplug the unit. 2. Take out the bulb cover and bulb. 3. remove the tray guides at the bottom of the freezer (2 screws each). Note these screws are longer that the others. 4. remove the shelf supports on the right hand side by sliding them directly upwards. 5. remove the 6 screws from the cover. 7. slide cover up to clear the alignment tabs, then manuver it out. 8. remove fan blades with pliers. 9. disconnect wire terminals from motor. 10. remove support clips and remove motor. 11. remove rubber motor mounts from old motor and put on new motor. 12. install in reverse order. Note extreme caution should be used when removing the cover and working around evaporator coil fins. The fins are extremely delicate (and sharp).

Removed 2 screws holding housing to frame. Pulled housing out 10 inches. Removed water lines. Attached water lines to new housing. Pushed back into place. Secured to frame with 2 screws. Put in new filter. DONE!