36358551890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I repaired as follows. 1) Open freezer door. 2)Removed ice maker bin. 3) removed screw with broken tab on it. 4) install new shield slide to side.
5) Reinstall screw. 6) Grab TAB (tasty adult beverage) and enjoy on back deck while talking about how good you are at repairing stuff.... HA!

I removed the back cover on the refrigerator. Unbolted the unit. First of all I unpluged the refrigerator. Took off the two electrical connections and removed the input and output water lines. I then reversed this process when I installed the new part. It was real easy.

Removed cowling unpluged timer and pluged in new one.
Great Service, got part in one day

Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.

New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.

Replaced flapper

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

I began by turning off the refridgerator and then removing all of the drawers/bins and icemaker from the freezer.

I removed the three phillips-head screws across the top of the rear access panel. (same height as the light bulb) I then removed the two phillips-head screws from the bottom of the access panel.

I removed the access panel by swinging the left side forward to clear the drawer slides, while keeping the right side back against itsattaching points. (Like a door swinging on its hinges.)

I followed the wire harness from the upper heating element up to its connector and unplugged the defrosting heaters from the plug. I then gently removed the little (just smaller than a tea light candle) thermostat from the top of the coils. (Not far from where the wire connector was.)

I removed two phillips head screws for each heater unit and removed the whole thing as on big assembly.

I installed the new parts from the bottom up, careful not to damage anything. I installed the new thermostat carefully and then reconnected the wire harness. Next I reinstalled the access panel, starting twith the top center screw to hold it in place during the installation of the other 4 screws in the corners.

Lastly, I put the drawers / bins and icemaker back in and turned the refrigerator back on. DONE.

It corrected the problem. THANKS for the Great Customer Service, too!

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

This Valve Has 2 Different Size Water Lines Going In To It And They Are Different Diameters.Each Has Its Own Collar That Locks The Lines Into It. Make Sure That You Put The Right Size Collar Over The Line Before You Insert It Into The Valve, Because Once You Put The Line In You Cant Pull It Back Out Without Messing Up The Valve. Make Sure It Is Right Because You Only Get One Shot At It.

Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.

Loosened screws holding old gasket to door. Removed old gasket. Fit new gasket around strips holding gasket in place---this was not easy. Tightened screws.

New gasket corrected problem.

Disregard previous.
1. Turn off water supply.
2. Unplug power cord.
3. Remove bottom Panel to access the Solenoid valve.
4. Remove the water lines from the Valve.
5. Remove the Valve from the refrigerator.
6. Remove the electrical connectors from the valve.
(make sure the new valve has the connector adaptors included) you will need them during installation.
7.Bend the new valve bracket inward about 45 degrees to clear the compressor coolant line.
8.Use a pair of pliers to braek away the plastic on the new valve for clearance.
9.If needed remove the compression fitings from the old water line installation as the new valve comes with the push and lock feature.
10.Install the bottom 2 water lines they are different sizes
11.Mount the new valve to refrigerator and tighten.
12.Install the ice maker water line to the top fitting on the valve.
13.Plug the power cord in & turn on the water supply,check for leaks and proper operation on the valve.

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

I was looking to see if there was a reason that there was no ice. By luck I removed the cover to the ice maker and found two gears, one of which was damaged. I could see one of the gears had missing teeth. I ordered part to fix problem and received the gear. 10 minutes later, viola! ice maker restarted and ice was falling in a few minutes.

It's a good idea to take closeup pictures, that will eliminate guessing when you put it back together. There was no instructions. I was happy to see GE knew there was a problem with the chrome auger. The replacement is STAINLESS STEEL.