25331434103 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the door actuated light switch with my index finger and thumb on my right hand. I then removed the two wires from the switch. I noticed that the new switch had different look to it,I think Frigidaire must have had a problem with the original design of the switch. Reassembly was just replacing the two wires and putting the new switch in place, and no more door closing problem.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

When my side by side Kenmore refrigerator quit keeping the top half of my freezer and refrigerator cold I called Sears to see how much it would cost to get it checked out and fixed. Bottom line it was going to cost minimum $65 (which was just for him to come out) to $250 on up depending on what the problem was. So i decided to "do it myself"! I took it apart and within a few minutes figured out that it was my evaporator fan. So I went to sears to order the part based on the part number and with shipping and handling it was going to cost $125. While at sears I got on one of their computers and quickly looked up Kenmore parts and partselect.com came up and I quickly found the part for $62 and I chose overnight delivery and spent a total of like $83. When my part arrived I realized that the wiring/plug ins didn't quite match up. So I got online and went to their website and found a video for "do it yourself'ers" like me on how to splice the wiring to make it match. It took me about 20 min to splice the wire and put my refrigerator back together and IT WORKED! Easy easy easy and I saved moocho bucks! Ill never pay a repairman again. Oh and by the way, I am blond! :-)

Removed old fan motor and installed new one.Not much room for big hands back there.Flexible extensions valuable on this job.

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

I rolled the fridge away from the wall, unplugged, and looked for large amounts of dust-didn't see much beyond that which was on condenser coil. The motor was locked up so I removed the three screws and pulled the finger-like connectors. The new kit has a special bracket to mount the smaller frame motor. Getting the two screws into that is challenging w/out a long magnetic screwdriver. Then I added the foam strip & plugged in the new connector. I did not need to but I replaced the two aged capacitors (start,run) from other kits. This will help the compressor to last longer and be more efficient by giving it a boost and sustaining phase difference. Connecting the new "relay start kit" simply required some cutting and splicing with butt connectors of the red and white leads coming from the compressor and covering w/ heat shrink tube

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

The new part fit perfectly! I just snapped it on! Thanks so much Partselect! You processed my order quickly, and I had it in my hands in a few days. What a relief to have this fixed! Thanks again.

I followed the instructions in the video associated with the part that I ordered. The video was perfect and described everything I needed to do clearly. Repair is 100% successful!

Exactly as the video showed, except I had to take the evap coil cover off and use a hair dryer to thaw it out. It was still frosting up too much, so I ordered the thermostat as well. Both were really easy, once i saw the location of the defrost timer and the thermostat. Thanks for the great site, prices that put the big store to shame, and the good video too!

Refrigerator and freezer was not cooling sufficiently due to an inoperative evaporator cooling fan. Replacing the mini evaporator fan was extremely easy. Here are the steps needed to replace the fan. Step 1: Unplug refrigerator/freezer main power cord from the electric wall outlet. Step 2: Remove the food rack from the freezer compartment. Step 3: Using a 1/4" nut driver, remove the (2) 1/4" screws that hold the freezer vent panel/temperature control in place. Step 4: After removing the screws, disconnect the motor's wire harness connector which is located on the top left corner behind the freezer's vent panel/temperature control. Step 5: Pull away the entire vent panel/temperature control panel and lay it flat on a table. Step 6: Remove the vent cover from the main panel by holding the left side and the right side of the vent cover and squeeze both ends at the same time. Step 7: With the motor now being visible pull the motor's fan blade straight off. Step 8: Using the 1/4" nut driver, remove the (2) screws that hold the motor bracket to the rear of the main panel. Step 9: Using the 1/4" nut driver remove the (2) screws that hold the motor to the bracket and the (1) ground wire screw. Step 10: Install new motor back onto the bracket with the original (2) screws and the (1) ground wire screw onto the same locations.Step 11: Re install the (2) screws that mount the fan bracket to the back of the main vent panel.Step 12: Push the motor's original fan blade back on the shaft until it's fully seated. Step 12: Snap back in place the small vent panel back onto the main panel. Step 13: Push in place until you hear a click, the motor's wiring harness connector back onto the top left corner of the freezer's main power wire harness connector. Step 13: Push the main vent panel until it's in place and then reinstall with the original (2) 1/4" screws. Step 14: Reinstall the freezer's food rack back in place. Step 15: Plug in the main power cord into the wall outlet. Get ready to enjoy ice cold drinking water and a super cold freezer. Pete,your weekend mechanic

My husband watched the video on your website and found it very easy to do the repair. The repair company that diagnosed the problem wanted $210 to do it. The part I ordered was under $20, and after he installed it the refrigerator has been working great. We would highly recommend your site to anyone who needs to fix anything!

took off cardboard removed two screws holding fan housing. Removed new fan and housing from box and mounted new fan to new housing (two screws). Installed new fan and housing. reinstalled cardboard and plunged in power cord. Perfect fit.