1067659661 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair was easy, I removed the cover on the top front of the fresh food compartment. It housed the defrost timer which was easy to identify and replace. Just removed a screw, unplugged the wires and replaced with the new part. Unfortunately, that wasn't the only problem. I also had to replace the defrost element that the timer sent power to. While I was at it, I replaced the defroster thermostat. The entire repair took under an hour, diagnosing the problem took the most time and effort.

After the front panel was removed, disconnected the timer and installed new in reverse order. The provided instructions could be more straight forward, I spent more time reading it than the installation itself.

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

Unplug, turn off water supply, carefully remove lower back cardboard cover, unscrew old valve mount, lay towel down, disconnect the three water lines, modify provided “L” bracket by drilling a hole outboard of one of the slots to match/fit the wider original mount holes on the refrigerator’s bottom pan, screw top/short end of bracket to valve, cut back the two clear lines about 1/2” for a “fresh” end, connect all three lines, position valve and secure with original screws (access is tight, used small 1/4” wrench), turn on water/check for leaks, install back lower cardboard, plug in and verify function.

Initial problem was water not entering the icemaker. Replacing the valve assembly did not solve the problem. Further investigation revealed the inflow tube to he icemaker had frozen water in it. Cleaned the ice our and water flowed a bit but not enough to fill the tray. Still investigating the problem.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

The wire plugs on the replacement part were in different orientations and the tubing connections were push-in versus the original threaded compression type. The repair kit did come with numerous additional tubes and brackets, but there were no instructions for their use. The slots on what looked like a mounting bracket adapter were not on the same centers as my original mount so I could only use one of the mounting holes - which should be OK since it is not under a lot of load after installation. I cut 3/4" off each of the outlet hoses to get a fresh, round hose end and installed the appropriate metal hose supports in the hose ends before shoving them into the push-in fittings. The size differences in the small, sheet metal internal hose supports are subtle, so be sure to double check them before installation. Be sure to press the hoses in fully or you will have a mess on your hands when you turn on the water (ask me how I know). I had to do some small re-routing of the wires to connect to the new wire connector locations (the wires were long enough). The inlet water connection was the same as original (screw on compression). I had no issues with that. After installation I actuated door water several times to make sure the press-in fittings would not work loose. I also monitored ice machine to make sure no leaks after several actuations. The differences in the original and replacement part were a little intimidating at first, but it can be made to work. 4 weeks so far and no issues, Very happy that a replacement part was available for my 21 year old fridge.

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

Followed instructions from ideoo

Watched instructional video, read all printed instructions and repair related posts
It's all there. Works great! Thank you!

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.